Hello All,
The Car 92 Z28 Heritage Edition, Auto, 52000 mi.

Was going on road trip Sat. drove 18 mi pulled in for fuel. Pulled out and drove 100 yds turned into another drive and engine died. Cranked no start.
Fiddled with stuff, had gas at rail. Fuel pump was replaced 9/2010 w/Bosch replacement. Towed home.

I proceeded with the following.
1. Fuel pressure 42-43# would slowly bleed down. 43# cranking.
2. Removed coil and spark modual for test.
3. coil tested low-Replaced
4. Modual tested ok- Replaced for age 19yrs
5. Replaced dist cap and rotor. Needed replaced. Orig Plugs and wires
6. Still would not start.
6a. Fuses ok
7. Would start spraying gas into throttle body.
8. Test light probed inj conn. light on on both term.
9. Got noid light 1,3,5,7 no flash
10. Pulled #4 first there was no flash, then small flash and engine coughed
flash got brighter and engine started.
11. Replaced conn and no start.
12. #6 #8 no flash
13. Pulled #4 Flash and started
14. Left #4 off and pulled #2 flash and started.
15. Reinstalled #2 #4 conn, engine started ran fine.
16. Restarted 3-4-time.
17. Went back about 1 1/2 hr later and it started.
18. Soooooo what gives. Don't really want to drive it until I've got it pinned down.

Did a search, didn't find any thing similar.
Thanks

 

just for piece of mind take the fuel filter out and check for water.

 

craby,
changed the filter, no water. Just a little dirt on the inlet side,nothing on the outlet side.
Should mention there were no codes except 12. In an act of desperation I unhooked the pos cable hoping to clear and reboot the ecm, that didn't work. Cussing didn't either.

 

check voltage at the ignition and injector fuses. are you getting a security light?

 

Had a service eng soon light until the engine finely started the it went out. Security light comes on then go out. It started again today just fine. I guess what is confusing me is unpluging the #4 injecter and pluging in the noid light and is started.

 

might be a vats issue starting, search for posts how to diasble it. best to do it while the car will still run. if that doesnt fix it, it sounds ecm related

 

Maybe short to voltage on the ground side of the injectors. To check for this, use a test light and check each wire going into the ecm, two wires, the light should not be on. You'll probly need a wiring diag.

Also if the light is ON, it could be a short in the wires themselves or in the ecm itself.

And if you want, check the resistance of the injectors, I think it should be higher than 10 ohms.

 

Could just be a case of dirty connectors, and by plugging and unplugging them you may just have fixed the problem.
VATS will prevent the starter from getting power, so if the starter works, it is not a VATS problem.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll keep probing until I get it figured out. But if you all think of anything else please post it.

 

i have found this problem several times and what it was in my case was the VATS key switch and key werent up to snuff EVEN tho they were lo mile originals