I've seen a few good paint jobs come out of Maaco. If you prep and prime your car they can spray it for like 300-600 dollars. The thing is if you plan on changing the color, they dont spray the engine bay and door jams, just the outside. So you will have to cut it in yourself.

 

Hi im Earl Schieb and i can paint your car, for 29.95! and it will last about the same 29 days. If your looking to paint it yourself or learn about same, go to www.eastwood .com and order their catalog. Beginning in 2008 all paints will be waterbased, which is ok if you know how to apply them.

 

I have been out of the autobody biz for a few years now but have been hearing that fable about all paints going to water base for many years before.

Oh and you do a great Earl impersonation, Riiigght

 

Well thank you Mike! I also do a mean Cal Worthington, course doubt anyone in hear remembers him? but i've been wrong before, or was i just mistaken? LOL. I have been quoted as much as 10k to paint my car, damn nearly pissed my pants laughing at the guy, i do know it's not something the novice painter should attempt, especially having to mix in the flex additive, a buddy at work is an old painter, he drives dumptruck now but his son own aquality shop in Wa State. You all take care now ya hear!

 

"When you want a better deal and not a stinkin seal go see Cal, go see Cal, go see Cal." "I'll eat this tigers dung or rape that monkey to sell you a car! Them claw marks will buff right out of that hood. And look at the shocks in this baby, good for humpin in the back seat."
Tell me i don't know Cal.

 

woa woa woa, who is this cal guy?

 

Car dealer. Here there is (or was) Worthington Chevrolet, Cadillac, Hyndai, Mistubishi.....His older comercials he would have a leopard on a leash running with it while the big cat jumps from hood to hood. He had all types of animals. He would eat a bug to make you a deal.

 

As for priming and sanding a car. do it peice by piece and i swear by it even if you have the whole day. reasons : if you sand the whole front end or even the whole thing then you WILL not have enough time to finish that day, and will probably rush as the day ends and do a poor job near the. trust me NOT A GOOD IDEA!!! start with the hood. big flat area, test your self (nobody can **** it up that bad, seriously bro) take the paint down through the clear and then down to the first coat, it's okay to get down to the bare metal but when you do then move on. Use a jitterbug sander with 60 grit paper. it will not leave deep scratches. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER SANDER especially if you are a beginner or to hurry up the sanding, you could mess it all up. not trying to discourage you just telling you.

Hopefully you are choosing a sunny day with not mudch wind hopefully none.. wash off all the dust wiht your hose then wipe it down wit ha CLEAN rag. no oil at all should touch your car until the clear coat is on, even you fingers while/after working on you car (means carefull while leaning over engine nad closing hood). any way now you can see dent and bumps (if you didnt force the sander)because dents will have paint in them and bumps will be bare metal on top and paint around them.. to make it right you need a hammer and a fat punch for the bumps and bondo for you dents and deep scratches. if your dents still have paint in them then sande a 3-4 in circle of bare metal around it.

Bondo is not hard to deal with event for beginners. make sure the the surface is clean (wipe with a damp rag and let dry. Mixing the bondo is the hardest part only because you have to find the right mixture of hardener and bondo. hardener come wit the bondo. If there is not enough hardener then it will take forever to dry and if trying to bondo the side with a bigger ding then i may fall out. if too much hardener is used then it may dry before or during the application. you dont need to bondo every little scratch, only do the deep ones need it. Use a 4in. spatula (come in 4 sizes in one package sold above the bondo at kragen and autozone) to get level with the general surface. Cover all the bare metal in the circle. Youcan finish it a couple of ways. one includes a "cheese grater" and the other is the same but without the grater. The grater can be bought at kragen and auto zone with the bondo. ask if you cant find it. anyway, after a little drying ,given the anount of hardener, grate down the excess so it is pretty much level with the body( till no more can really come off). Then sand it flush with the sander and 220 grit very fine sandpaper. run your finger over it and then sand until it feels flush with no bondo ridges, repeat.
AS A NOTE: it is easy to overestimate how much bondo is needed and how much you poured. it's okay if you made too much just throw it away...

As you go to the store for bondo pick up your paint kragen and autozone sell the same stuff.Dupli-color filler primer. its a thicker paint.this will fill in the minor scratches that you didn't bondo. cheaper at autozone. also get a pistol grip for the can or you will end up tagging your car.

now, after bondoing everything and wiping the whole area to be painted nad the area around it with a wet rag and letting it dry then mask of the area with newspaper and masking tape specially the glass do the whole wind shield and wipers and everything. overspray is a BI**H. DO NOT BUY TAPE FROM AN AUTO STORE it is way to expensive. get it from walmart. Now begin spraying. go side to side in one direction only. start spraying before you get to the part you are actually paint. if you dont you will get a thick spot of paint where you started. Make sure you dont go too slow or the paint (any paint) will be laid

 

[quote]ORIGINAL: lighter

As for priming and sanding a car. do it peice by piece and i swear by it even if you have the whole day. reasons : if you sand the whole front end or even the whole thing then you WILL not have enough time to finish that day, and will probably rush as the day ends and do a poor job near the. trust me NOT A GOOD IDEA!!! start with the hood. big flat area, test your self (nobody can **** it up that bad, seriously bro) take the paint down through the clear and then down to the first coat, it's okay to get down to the bare metal but when you do then move on. Use a jitterbug sander with 60 grit paper. it will not leave deep scratches. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER SANDER especially if you are a beginner or to hurry up the sanding, you could mess it all up. not trying to discourage you just telling you.

Hopefully you are choosing a sunny day with not mudch wind hopefully none.. wash off all the dust wiht your hose then wipe it down wit ha CLEAN rag. no oil at all should touch your car until the clear coat is on, even you fingers while/after working on you car (means carefull while leaning over engine nad closing hood). any way now you can see dent and bumps (if you didnt force the sander)because dents will have paint in them and bumps will be bare metal on top and paint around them.. to make it right you need a hammer and a fat punch for the bumps and bondo for you dents and deep scratches. if your dents still have paint in them then sande a 3-4 in circle of bare metal around it.

Bondo is not hard to deal with event for beginners. make sure the the surface is clean (wipe with a damp rag and let dry. Mixing the bondo is the hardest part only because you have to find the right mixture of hardener and bondo. hardener come wit the bondo. If there is not enough hardener then it will take forever to dry and if trying to bondo the side with a bigger ding then i may fall out. if too much hardener is used then it may dry before or during the application. you dont need to bondo every little scratch, only do the deep ones need it. Use a 4in. spatula (come in 4 sizes in one package sold above the bondo at kragen and autozone) to get level with the general surface. Cover all the bare metal in the circle. Youcan finish it a couple of ways. one includes a "cheese grater" and the other is the same but without the grater. The grater can be bought at kragen and auto zone with the bondo. ask if you cant find it. anyway, after a little drying ,given the anount of hardener, grate down the excess so it is pretty much level with the body( till no more can really come off). Then sand it flush with the sander and 220 grit very fine sandpaper. run your finger over it and then sand until it feels flush with no bondo ridges, repeat.
AS A NOTE: it is easy to overestimate how much bondo is needed and how much you poured. it's okay if you made too much just throw it away...

As you go to the store for bondo pick up your paint kragen and autozone sell the same stuff.Dupli-color filler primer. its a thicker paint.this will fill in the minor scratches that you didn't bondo. cheaper at autozone. also get a pistol grip for the can or you will end up tagging your car.

now, after bondoing everything and wiping the whole area to be painted nad the area around it with a wet rag and letting it dry then mask of the area with newspaper and masking tape specially the glass do the whole wind shield and wipers and everything. overspray is a BI**H. DO NOT BUY TAPE FROM AN AUTO STORE it is way to expensive. get it from walmart. Now begin spraying. go side to side in one direction only. start spraying before you get to the part you are actually paint. if you dont you will get a thick spot of paint where you started. Make sure you dont go too slow or the p

 

I didn't say take it down t othe bare metal, i said down to the first coat and besides you will have bare metal showing when you sand when you have bumps. I said stop and move on if you hit bare metal.

and if you want your bondo to stickbetter then take it down to the metal and bondo the entire area per my reply. if you cover over any bare metal with paint or bondothen no water will reach the metal - no rust