87 z28 305, 4 barrel Carter afb Competition series Carb is acting up. Bought the car 3 months ago, the thing drives fine.. but when its started cold, idles very high. And takes a while to kick down, once it kicks down, it just dies when its off the choke, So to get it to run you have to have your foot on the pedle or it just dies. I'm pretty sure if has something to do with the throttle linkage screws being adjusted, but i did play around with them and they had no affect. Maybe play around with them more? And when the car is driven for 30 mins, and you come to a red light, it dies. The pvc hose at the front of the carb is also riped and has a nice whole in it. That could be the problem right? Should i just go fudge around with the idle screws for a while or what?

One more thing, when i start the car cold and its idleing really high, the car shakes quite a bit, but that might be cuz of open headers and it being at like 2500rpm right?

Thanks, All replies are great!

Sincerly, Cole Mithrush

 

Fix the massive vacuum leak from that PCV hose first. Your linkage may be getting gummed up. Make sure it works freely. Spray carb cleaner, WD-40, make sure its all loose.
2500 rpm should be smooth, open headers or not. What is its state of tune? Good parts? Lots of miles on the filters and ignition parts?

 

Its all brand new ignition,(plugs, wires, distrubuter) exsept distributorshaft. The throttle linkage definatly isent getting stuck. I think it might just be the idle screws out of place? does that sound right? Or the pvc might be making all these issues. Because if the power breaking pipe gets taken off the back of the carb and its just an open hole, these issues will occur, so i think ill get the pvc hose fixed up, if that does nothing, i guess it must be the idle screws on the throttle linkage.

Tell me what you would do in a situation like this. Thanks for the reply (oh ya, its got all new filters aswell)

 

Do a Google search for Carter Choke Adjustment Procedure.
There are three things you need to adjust...
First, your fast idle screw needs to be backed out some to slow down the cold idle.
Second, if the choke takes a while to kick off, then you need to lean the choke adjustment (rotate the can) just a little.
Third, your curb idle screw needs to be screwed in some to speed up your off-choke idle.

 

I tried that Camaro 69, But the screws dident take any affect on the idleing(cold) and im pretty sure the car was hot because i could kick it down then it would just stall. So that means i have to turn up the top screw on the throttle linkage right? I think i might just have to move the screws around a little bit more for them to take affect?

I watched a video on Edelbrock 600 carb removal and tuning and everything there is to know about carbs. And edelbrock and Carter are virtually the same. So ya, i guess ill just turn those screws some more. AND FIX THE PVC HOSE, bc that could be the whole problem itself.[:-]

 

Err, the carb is pissing me off right now lol. Its soo confusing. maybei should just get a edelbrock 600? Because they come tuned outa the box. But i like my carter carb. I just cant get it to work properly, the screws barley do anything and its annoying. I thought i had for a sec... then it just started idleing UP slowley to really high idle. Its so confusing. What should i do.

 

Maybe one of these will help:
http://www.carburetor.ca/carbs/tech/...AVS-index.html
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf

 

Dude, fix the PCV hose before ANYTHING. It's causing a massive vacuum leak, thus raising the idle considerably, rendering your adjustments useless. After you do that, follow the instructions that 69 gave you. Also, check your choke, if it isnt open all the way it could cause high idle or even stalling.

The engine should be smooth at 2500, not shaking the car. Check, re check, and then re check your firing order. That and the PCV hose could be causing all of this.

 

ok jr mechanic, thats exaclty what i wanted to hear. i think i should be able to fix it from here

 

Fix that PVC hose. Vacuum leaks are bad. You shouldn't even be driving it without fixing that. Driving a car while having a simple problem to fix is... well... not the brightest thing. Your mpg and performance is probably really sucking because of that.

The shaking is the combustion chambers loading up with fuel more than likely. Do you wait for it to even out the idle before pulling out? If not when you drive off do you see a lot of black smoke?