you can use grandma's oxygen tank, but it would too volitile and unstable to use. n20 is an oxidizer, and is around 25-30% oxygen vs. atmosphere which is around 18% oxygen. more oxygen allows the use of more fuel. more air fuel, more boom in the cylinder, more power. it is still a form of a forced induction as there is a larger air/fuel charge than what normal atmospheric pressure will allow, how ever it is not under boost pressure like sc or turbo

 

i believe thats what i said (only i said it more like n2o for dummy's ) .
either way it's a way more dangerous way to boost power .
i've looked into it but didn't like the bad side effects . a turbo will bust your motor , n2o back fires exploseds like a bomb !
however that being said i like a turbo'd car an can't wait to feel the power of a twin turbo'd small block .i jus figure why not bust the 305's bottom end while i'm saving for a strong built bottom end .from what i've read 305 is only good for 300-350 at the crank but it's still a cheaper easyier way to get there while i'm saving for a better motor .

 

Why waste all the time and money trying to break the 305? You could be spending the time and money on a good 350, and if you don't break the 305 you could sell it on Craigslist to recoup some of your expenses. Even though they're not the best choice, there's still people who will buy them if they're good running engines to replace their's.

 

cause it's got 150000 miles :
i wouldn't feel right sellling it to somebody, i'd rather experiment with it myself an learn on it . i know turbo's just not on a sbc an if i'm gonna junk it anyway after i find a replacement why not trash it learning instead of a new bottom end . i'm not into the whole sell junk to somebody thing , theres things i can learn with it . an while learning i'm sure it's gonna bust it .better to bust a free motor ( only paid 1200 for the whole car )then spend 3-5 grand an bust it.

my car may be my daily driver but it's just a toy to me . i came from a 400 whp srt 4 an i won't be happy till it's faster than that .i run 12's in it spinning the rims in the slicks at 113 mph trap an topped out at 155-160 .
i won't be happy til this car could smoke that one both 1/4 an top end ! so turbo's are what i know .

 

dont forget that when you blow apart the bottom end, its going to take a lot of stuff with it. you can take out the flexplate, trans, rear end if it locks up. if shrapnel hits a fuel line, it will catch fire. ive seen con rods and chunks of cams go through hoods, fire walls, fenders, and even damage chassis parts. i got luck with mine blowing up that eveything stayed in the pan and block and i coasted into my driveway

 

[QUOTE=hurley870;409509][QUOTE=Gorn;397880]All a turbo does is add air and that is all Nos does.
Nitrous is Air. When you add NOS you have to add more fuel, if you don't you will not feel much boost and you will melt your pistons and rings. Back in the old carb days there was two lines going to the base of the carb One fuel one Nitrous. With fuel injection you can have a wet or dry system. A wet system works just like the old carb, a seprate fuel line but a dry system works off the O2 sensor reading the increase of Oxygen it will adds fuel. Like on my 96 I could get away with a 50 shot Dry but I would most likely add some L67 injectors which will designed for a motor with 40HP more then mine. On a wet system you have to be sure when you add a 150 HP shot of NO2 that your car gets 150 HP worth of fuel.

The danger of NOS blowing your motor is because the solenoids leaks and fills the intake with NOS or the system has not built in saftey features and it ends up burning lean (too hot) and that causes the motor to rip itself a part. Owning NOS is like owning a gun. If you build the system with all the right parts and follow the rules it will be fine.

 

sorry to burst your bubble gorn, but when an efi car is at wot, the o2 sensor reading is not used. a lot of sensors are overlooked at wot and the computer dumps in the amount of fuel according to the fuel map in the computer. most efi cars are set to be at 12.5:1 a/f at wot. at that point, there is nearly zero fuel returning to the tank, and the injectors are only set to open a certain amount. adding a dry shot will utilize the factory set fuel map, but anything over 75 will lean the mixture out and cause a meltdown