Ive got a 1991 Z28, And i have to replace the fuel pump in it. Anyone have any tips on how to do this? Ive been told i have to drop the rear end, or cut the floor pan up.

 

cutting the floor is possibly the worst idea ever, but it is a method. it depends how much you like having sparks over top of a container full of flammable liquids. the only true method of removing the tanks is to undo the rear muffler hangers as well as the hanger after the cat. make sure the vehicle is safely on jack stands, and remove the rear shocks. that allows the rear to swing down enough to remove the tank.

 

yup, and prior to 1986, vehicles dind't have the high brake light (3rd brake light) and prior to 89 airbags were not widely deployed. heck, it wasn't long ago that seat belts or crumple zones were in vehicles. But, we learn and change along the way.

There is no shame in fixing a mistake made by GM. In other words, creating an access panel that other manufacturers have. You also don't need to use a grinder to create an access panel in your cargo area.

But, it's entirely up to the individual as to which method you like. Me, I'm glad seat belts, 3rd brake lights, crumple zones and air bags are now standard equipment. Manufacturers learn from their errors and GM was just slow to learn about access to a common failing part.

 

That didnt even cross my mind about grinding over the fuel tank. I think ill just drop the rear. All you have to do is undo the exhaust and take the rear shocks off and the rear end will drop? Seems a little more complicated than that..

 

if it comes down to it, you can drill a hole or two (no sparks) then use hard core scissors like siding shears or something like that, i believe chaotic94 did it so you may wanna ask him, i know he didnt wanna drop his tank, but i know its a little different being a 4th gen

 

It just seems too complicated to replace such a simple thing. But i dont wanna blow my garage up. Do you think id have enough room putting it on jacks?

 

youll need a few feet on each side and prolly need the back end 3 or so feet up to get everything out easily,from my experience anyways

 

I've replaced fuel pumps both ways, via access holes and by dropping the tank. Personally, I feel it is more dangerous to drop the tank than to expend the modest effort to install an access hole for those vehicles that don't have them.

I also feel it should be mandatory for the automakers to install an access hole allowing for easy fuel pump replacement for any vehicle manufactured with an in tank pump. Not doing so is irresponsible and a slap to the face of their customers.

In fact, designers who failed to do this should be jailed, in my opinion. The scum...

 

I changed the fuel pump when I had a 91. I started with the hatch method, then ended up dropping the tank anyway. The major issue is, from the factory, they didn't leave any disconnects on the steel lines. That means you have to cut them, otherwise the sending unit will not come up, angled, then out. Then you'll need to flare at least the high pressure supply line to do it the right and safe way. Doesn't matter what car manufacturer the car is, all high pressure fuel lines are connected with flare fittings, and they do it that way for a reason. Anyone who connects it back together with a simple rubber hose and clamps is just half azzing the job, risking a gas leak in the future. I didn't want to do a half azzed job with a fuel line that's above the exhaust system.

 

I don't disagree with the need to do the job right, other than to say if someone can't handle a fuel line connection they really shouldn't try to replace a fuel pump, period. That's with an access hole or tank drop, whatever. I mean this isn't exactly rocket science here.

My position is, this is a very simple thing to include in the design stage. Not doing it is an absolute bonehead move in my opinion. No wonder these turkeys had to be bailed out by the taxpayers.