Fuel Pump Access Panel
 

Do you need to change your fuel pump? Is the rubber line connecting your pump to the assembly deteriorated and leaking fuel back into the tank? Is your strainer reducing fuel pressure?

Chevrolet, for whatever reason, felt that an access panel was not needed to get to the fuel pump. Well, I think otherwise.

Step 1
Remove all carpeting from the area, and use a sharpie and a straight edge to mark the area you will be cutting.
http://a.imageshack.us/img186/7269/step1a.jpg

Step 2
Lightly score the area that you marked with the sharpie with your grinder/dremel/weapon of choice. This will make your lines easier to follow while you are cutting.
http://a.imageshack.us/img541/6707/step2q.jpg

Step 3
Make a complete cut of the line you scored. You have plenty of room between the sheet metal and tank, minimum of 3/4" in the tightest space.
http://a.imageshack.us/img148/3739/step3l.jpg

Step 4
After my original hole, I felt that I needed to make it slightly bigger. I repeated my steps, sharpie, scoring the line, and cutting.
http://a.imageshack.us/img651/5933/step4z.jpg

Step 5
Disconnect the fuel lines at the bottom of the tank, under the car. Label the lines with a sharpie and tape so they can be properly reassembled.
http://a.imageshack.us/img46/1707/step5n.jpg

Step 6
Clean the area around the access hole. Remove the locking ring at the top of the tank. Label and cut the fuel lines. (DO NOT USE A GRINDER, SPARKS WILL DETONATE FUMES). I used a hacksaw. Once you have cut the fuel line, the pump will slide out, as well as the lines heading to the front of the car. You will need to clean your cuts with a dremel or a file.
http://a.imageshack.us/img580/760/stp6.jpg

Step 7
Fix the problem...
http://a.imageshack.us/img13/8519/step72y.jpg


To reassemble the system you will use rubber hoses and clamps where you cut your fuel lines. The rest is a no-brainer.

Don't forget the potential of rust where you cut. Spray a coat of primer over these edges. The hole you cut can be covered with any piece of thin sheet metal and shaped to the contour of the trunk. Screw the sheet metal in place using VERY SHORT sheet metal screws. Use gasket maker under the sheet metal to make sure you have a weather proof seal. I will post pictures of this soon.

More details and pictures coming soon of the reassembly.

Uh, let me get this straight: You cut your high pressure fuel line and reconnected it with rubber hose and clamps?

Nice job on describing the process, I'll be saving this thread just in case I ever need to get access to the fuel pump in the future. Thanks

if he used high pressure fuel hose, it might hold for a few years. at least itll be easy to fix when it fails

Come on guys, think about what you are saying... There is a rubber hose IN THE FUEL TANK that is pressurized, and submerged in fuel. What is wrong with a hose inline 12 inches further along, that is not submerged?

If you used high pressure rated fuel line, then it should be fine for a few years like Micro said, but it was probably just cheap rubber line from the parts store.

I prefer to not have an iffy connection directly above my fuel tank under high pressure. You should have at least used compression fittings for the high pressure and return lines. Rubber line and clamps will be fine for the vent and evap line.

For that matter, I also prefer not to hack up my cars sheet metal. Any particular reason you didn't do it the right way?

I once attempted to do mine that way. But the RIGHT way to reconnect the cut high pressure supply line is by flaring it (and using flare connectors obviously). And I didn't want to half-*** it with rubber hose, with a fuel line that's above the exhaust. Did you ever wonder why the supply line is connected together (at the filter and TB) with flare fittings from the factory? Tick....tick....tick....BOOM!

Well, I figure if a rubber hose in the tank can last 18 years, a rubber hose on the same fuel line, 12 inches further up, will last just as long. As for the right way of dropping the tank and not wanting to "hack" on the car, I'd rather not "hack" on a custom welded exhaust system. The hole I cut is done properly, squared, primered for rust, and properly sealed against the weather. All-in-all, i'd say its done pretty well. Flaring the lines would be a better choice, and if I have any problems with it, I will do so.

In fact, I may use a sheet of plexi-glass to cover the access hole to make inspecting the fitting easier.

BTW, the fuel line is rated high pressure fuel line manufactured by goodyear.

Also, a TBI 305ci does not exactly have an enormous amount of fuel pressure.