OK so i need a new keycuz i bvent it awhile back an i dont want it to break in the ignition one dayso i knew there was some kind of chip or something in the ignition keyand now that im doing some research its called the VATS key so im reading up and this is....
How It Works
The idea behind it is very simple. The ignition key has a "chip" (just a resistor) installed on it, which can be easily seen. When you attempt to turn the ignition ON, the resistance of the chip is measured, and compared to the value stored in the VATS decoder module. If they are the same, a signal is sent to the ECM telling it to fire the injectors (pin F10 for the 1227730 ECM, and pin B6 for the 1227165 ECM). At the same time, the starter enable relay will be energized by the VATS decoder module. If the wrong resistance is read, then the signal will not be sent to the ECM, the starter enable relay will not be energized, and the injectors will not fire. Additionally, a code 46 will be shown. This code will not be stored in the ECM's memory, and is only present while the conditions for a code 46 are present. The module will shut down for 2 to 4 minutes. During this time, any attempts to start the vehicle will not work. If the ignition switch is turned during this time, the timer will restart even if a key with the correct resistance is used. ....(notice bold text)

ok so now heres my problem!.. sometimes out of the blue i will go to start my car and nothing happens.. i hear the fuel pump prime and nothing ..no crank ..nada ..dead in the water ! ..i always thought it was my starter because i got it cheap from advance auto#1 an always gave me problems since i put the POS inand #2 it takes threeturns and i hear three clicks like theres not enough tork in the starter to crank over ,then the starter usuallyengages. but when it doesnt i soon started picking up lol after many times of this happening i would go inside my house or somewhere and come back to the car andtry to start it andvroom it starts or i hear click..click.click....vrooom (thinking starter!?) and it also happens when im around town shoppin or something andstop the car and go inside a store an come out and it does this ..then i wait about 5-10-15 min and then try to start it ..usually all goes well and it does ive been having alot of problems lately with the car from it not running right..to this ...ive also some times pulled codes like 46 and such like it was sayingso now im thinking could it be my ignition be going bad ..or a relay...what would cause my resistor in the key not to be reading right with the car! im so confused and dont know where to begin lol[sm=boohoo.gif] any light that can be shed! greatly appreciated!

O and what do you think about the starter ..im looking at getting a high tork from ecklers...what do you think

 

I did not want to read this. I Hate You!

 

hey its good knowledge, did u know how it worked ..i didnt ...so now you do ...reading builds you vocabulary aswell ![sm=gobble.gif]

 

The contcts on the key and the ignition switch wear out or get dirty, Try a new key first.

 

i used to have the same problem wit hondas it was usually a relay so try a new relay, cause one i installed a new relay it cranked instantly

 

a while back, my car wouldn't even turn over, all the guages would go to zero when i turned it to start. i fiogured out it was the chip in my key that was worn down so i used my spare. The end.

 

im thinking the key was worn down after 17 years lol ..so i went to my local locksmith and he used the machine andtold me its a code 4! im like are you sure hes like yea i can make it for you so then i tell him ok chevy dealer wants 40+tax so im like what the heck i need it anyway ....go out side doesnt work..wait for a while and use my old key cranks up , use new ..dead again ..so i do this three times and spent 45 min outsideso then i tell myselfthis dude has the wrong code ...! the key looked diffrent and everything so i go back and he test it again and it was code 9!!! i was calm but pissed ! all he gives me back from $35 is 5 dollars that was an insult but what r u gonna do !

 

make him replace the key he screwed up makeing and charged you for with the right one.after all it was his screwup

 

your problem does not sound like a VATS problem. when those go bad, they usually go all at once.

all the VATS is, is a matched resistor to the ignition. if you measure across the chip in the key, you can find out it's value. used to have to put a resistor inline to the ignition to be able to bypass the VATS for remote starters. the VATS II, now that's completely different

is your car dying at all when it warms up? if it is, with your other described problem, it sounds like your lockup for your converter is gone. as a temp fix and diagnosis, you can unplug it from the tranny and see if the problem goes away. how old is your battery? (sometimes it's the obvious things)

 

I had fun figuring out the VATs system on my car.Never had the key so I ended up making my own innterrogator machine out of some resistors from Radio Shack and a piece of paper. Now I can check anybodys car in a matter of minutes.
Plus I love screwing the dealers out of their $200 they were gonna charge me to do it

I did check with some "locksmiths" but no one wanted to help me. One guy told me We don't do Camaros