engine removal
 

1992 Z28, 5 speed, 305, stock

I don't know exactly what to do. Last summer my car started knocking. I had two experienced, trustworthy mechanics listen, and both agreed that it was most definitely rod knock. Unfortunately, I go to school on the other side of the country, and I haven't had much time at home, so the car has been sitting in the garage for almost a year.

I have one month before I go back north. Assuming it is rod knock, but the damage isn't completely serious, is one month enough time to take out the engine, replace the crankshaft, bearings, and rods, and maybe do some other things while the engine is removed?

I've been working on the car for around 3 years, but the biggest engine job I've done so far is fuel injector replacement. Those of you who have pulled an engine before, how long did it take you to get it out of the car?

Also, any suggestions on other repair and maintenance I should perform while the engine is out? I'd like to install a more aggressive camshaft, might look into some other things, but I need to decide in the next couple of days and get to work.

If you spun a rod, there is a very likely chance that your crank will need to be machined. If you go as far as to pull the crank, you should rebuild the engine. (Rings, etc). (putting a new bottom end on a worn engine is silly) My advice is to find a junkyard donor motor and drop it in. A simple engine swap can be done in about 4-5 days in your own garage, by yourself, with minimal experience. An engine rebuild, as you may be suggesting, is going to get real complicated and expensive and will go past your 1 month deadline (as you find little things wrong with it, it turns into order parts, wait for machine work, etc....)

The physical act of pulling the engine, I find, can be best divided into 4 sessions. 1) Prep the engine. Draining coolant, pulling the intake, pulling the headers, all the wiring, etc. This is the most time consuming. Give this a full day. 2) Pull the engine. Takes about 3 hours. Even less if you have a buddy help 3) put the new one in. again, about 3 hrs with help. 4) Hook it ALL back up....another day or so....

i tore my engine down with it in the car to make the removal simpler. i highly suggest getting ratcheting wrenches in sizes of 1/2", 9/16" and 5/8" as they will probably cut about 2 hours off the whole process. with my intake and heads off, i had my engine out in about 3 hours, by myself, on a gravel driveway. its rather straightforward. i didnt need to remove the hood either. i do suggest though labeling connections, especially vacuum lines. if you are going to replace the bottom end, i think you can get a new crank and bearings for under $200 from advance auto. i would also suggest replacing that rod, and at the minimum, re-hone the cylinders and put in new rings

I don't see why you would tear it down in the car unless you don't have a hoist big enough to handle the weight...These cars have plenty of room to swing the engine and transmission in and out all day with the radiator out. I just pulled mine out (again), I did remove the transmission separate though because I didn't have a load leveler and honestly it only takes me 30 minutes to drop the transmission anyways. You can pull the engine with the transmission in the car, but in my opinion you'll spend more time d*cking around with the bell housing bolts than you will if you just completely remove it.

It sounds to me like the best option for you is a new short block. Get one remanufactured and transfer all of your parts over to it (I'd have the heads checked out though, and add a mild cam if your budget allows.)

Thanks for the advice

I just called gearheadengines.com, they have 305 and 350 longblocks for about 1500 each, stock. A couple questions
1. Will a 305 intake manifold bolt on to a 350?
2. Will a 350 bolt on to a manual T-5 tranny?
3. Is there a name for the part of the engine that bolts to the transmission, and does it vary between 350 models?


I've heard that the T-5 can't take the extra torque from the 350, but I've also heard of stock trannies holding up to 300+hp, so I feel like I'll rebuild the transmission if and when I need to.

1. Yes. Which manifold, the stock TPI?
2. Yes, and how long the trans lives depends on how much you beat on it.
3. Bellhousing flange, and no.

1500 bucks for a fresh long block is a reasonable price. IF you can afford it, go that route. Shop around though, you may be able to find one a few hundred bucks cheaper on ebay (but I have NO clue as to how reliable those ebay engine guys are)

The BIGGEST piece of advice I can give you about pulling your engine is.......Buy the LONGEST 3/8 drive extension you can find. I think Ive got a 18 or 24 inch one.....without a super long extension, those bell housing bolts will literally take you HOURS to remove and install again. I know this sounds like a small issue, but trust me, it will save you tons of frustration.

With enough extension the bell housing bolts are easy if you drop the tail of the transmission down. Takes me 30 seconds to run them all out with my impact.

....With enough extensions, and drilled holes in the firewall, you could loosen the bolts from the trunk! :)

when i tore my engine down to remove it, i didnt have stable enough ground to jack it up and use an extension to get to the bellhousing. thats why i took the heads off and did it that way. i also didnt have a load leveler