Hello all. I just signed up hoping that I could get some help with my 91 V6..

Recently I think I've taken on the common VATS problem with the car. I would sometimes send it into "security" mode, where it seemed if I didn't put the key in the ignition whithin a certain amount of time after opening the door, it would not start and "security" would be lit up on the dash. I'd wait 3 minutes or so and re try, which would work fine, car starts up no problem.

Anyway the other day before school, I had it again. I waited the usual 3 minutes, but when I went to try again, it did not work. "Security" was still lit up. I waited another 5 minutes, retryed, nothing. I then gave it 10 minutes but it was still in "security" mode. After this I just went to school, came home about 6hrs. later, retryed and still would not work, with security lit up.

I talked to some mechanics about this and looked around online, and figured it was the VATS problem. I was told to use a multimeter to find my key chip's resistance, and to buy a resistor with that same resistance. (My key is #3, 681 ohms. I bought a resistor for 680 ohms.) Then I was told to find an orange wire under the steering wheel, which is the VATS wire, and to cut it in half and wire the resistor in between the halves. (This tricks the VATS module into thinking the correct key is always in the ignition, which would start the car.)

Unfortunately, it still does not start. The problem doesn't always have the "security" light on, but regardless of whether its on or not nothing is happening with the engine when I turn the key. No cranking or clicking, it's like there's a killswitch enabled that cannot be turned off.

What could this problem be? Please know that I only spliced and taped the resistor into the wire, I did not solder it. Does it need to be soldered to work?

Thank you for your time reading this and any help is muchappreciated! I miss my car

 

The Vats system has no idea how much time passes by from the time you open the door to when you turn the ignition. An aftermarket alarm might havethat function. The VATS is just making sure you use the correct key in the ignition. Can't bust out the lock and not use a key like done in a theft.
Do you have an aftermarket alarm installed. If you do chances are that is the problem. Does the engine crank and can you here the fuel pump run for around 2 seconds after the key if first turned on?

 

I have no other security system installed, just stock. If the VATS doesn't recognize the doors being open, then why would it randomly initiate from time to time? Was it a sign that it was going bad?

EDIT: Engine does not crank, but I do think that the fuel pump comes on. Everything else is fine too, radio, lights, wipers. It seems that the engine just isn't doing anything.

 

Another thought comes to mind that is overlooked at times. The ignition switch can slide out of adjustment. Can you turn the key back, towards you, to put the ignition in the accesory position?
And I assumed you checkedall the fuses.

 

The key does come toward me into the "lock" position as it says on the ignition. Fuses were checked and replaced.

 

You should be able to turn the key towards you more to the ACC position. This is so a person can play the radio without all the engines electronics on. If it will not go into that position then you need to adjust the switch located near the bottom of the column

 

The "lock" position (towards me) does just that, when in that position, the radio and everything comes on.

 

Ok if it only goes to the "lock" position (the raised area on the column that says lock) then the ignition switch is out of adjustment. That is where it goes to lock the column and remove the key. About 1/4 inch more towards you is supose to be the accessory position. That is where the radio is supose to be in use. That may be why your engine is not cranking. Its free to check.

 

Okay thank you! I have a guy coming to take a look at the car. I'll let you know how things go.

 

Alright the guy came by, and man do I feel dumb, I wired the resistor into the VATS wire incorrectly. (Note that the VATS wire is in fact 2 small wires running inside the same orange casing.)Instead of bridging the two halves of the cut VATS wire, like I did, you need to bridge the two smaller wires together from the half that is closer to the engine.

Anyway, problem solved, everything is fine! I had them look at the ignition madmike, and that problem was fixed, just needed some adjusting. Thank you so much for your help and time here, too!