break in procedure??
#1
break in procedure??
ok i installed new cam and lifters i know tht procedure now is there anythng for main bearings and connecting rod bearings
also i have fully rebuilt never usefd yet tci super street fighter 700r4 any break in for that?
also i have fully rebuilt never usefd yet tci super street fighter 700r4 any break in for that?
#5
I like to do a oil and filter change after break in to get the particulates out. Same goes for the trans. I did the trans after about 1000 miles and there was just a little bit of grey material at the bottom of the pan and around the magnet. Once you get that baseline you can pay attention to everything a little better.
#6
If that's all you replaced, then there's no concern at all about the untouched main and rod bearings.
#8
ok well ive got an odd issue now
when cold car runs 40 psi idle where i want it but when i hit 4500-5000 rpms my aftermarket oil pressure gauge wraps back around to zero which is around 120-140 psi
and when warmed up pressure gradually lowers all the way down to 2 psi at idle
gonna run seafoam through the oil for a day or two then change from 10w30 to 20w50 with zinc additives
also currently running bosh oil filter...when i do oil change gonna switch over to a wix
this problem showed up out of nowhere after i ran one pass down the 1/4 mile i didnt even get a chance to tune things in
when cold car runs 40 psi idle where i want it but when i hit 4500-5000 rpms my aftermarket oil pressure gauge wraps back around to zero which is around 120-140 psi
and when warmed up pressure gradually lowers all the way down to 2 psi at idle
gonna run seafoam through the oil for a day or two then change from 10w30 to 20w50 with zinc additives
also currently running bosh oil filter...when i do oil change gonna switch over to a wix
this problem showed up out of nowhere after i ran one pass down the 1/4 mile i didnt even get a chance to tune things in
#9
1.) It's not good to go winding the rpm's like that on a cold engine, but that's not the reason for the high reading.
B.) Does the gauge wrap around when the engine is hot too?
3.) Mechanical or electric gauge? Could be the sending unit/switch if electrical, or the gauge could have gone whacko. I would try another gauge setup to rule that out.
4.) A spun bearing will give you a high oil pressure reading, which is another good reason to hope it's the gauge. No new funky engine noises at all?
B.) Does the gauge wrap around when the engine is hot too?
3.) Mechanical or electric gauge? Could be the sending unit/switch if electrical, or the gauge could have gone whacko. I would try another gauge setup to rule that out.
4.) A spun bearing will give you a high oil pressure reading, which is another good reason to hope it's the gauge. No new funky engine noises at all?
#10
didnt spin a bearing... oil still looks clean and new no shavings nothing
even pulled dipstick tube out n ran a magnet down into bottom of oil pan to pick up any possible shavings to check for spun bearing and came out clean.
the engine still runs smooth no ticks knocks squeaks or grinding noises
i may have a mild blockage....i hope...... hence the reason why im going to put a pint of sea foam in my oil and drive it a little
and i dont wot it right after start up i wait till it at least gets to 80-100*
even pulled dipstick tube out n ran a magnet down into bottom of oil pan to pick up any possible shavings to check for spun bearing and came out clean.
the engine still runs smooth no ticks knocks squeaks or grinding noises
i may have a mild blockage....i hope...... hence the reason why im going to put a pint of sea foam in my oil and drive it a little
and i dont wot it right after start up i wait till it at least gets to 80-100*