89 camaro diagnostic
#1
89 camaro diagnostic
Ill be doing some homework but in the mean time I would like some input on what needs special attention on an 89 iroc z28. Im not too savvy on the Camaro so Im taking it into a mechanic and have him look it over. What I know is its a 1989 IROC z28 with a '97 camaro engine (LT1 I think?) I will ask to have a basic diagnostic of the engine and tranny but I was looking for any other helpful hints on where to check for major problems.
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
#2
RE: 89 camaro diagnostic
Besides engine and transmission, give the suspension the once over. Check for bad shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, sagging springs, uneven tire wear. Check wheel alignment and trust angle. Check the brakes, Check driveshaft for bad U joints, they make a clunking noise as you get off and on the gas. Check for noisy wheel bearings. Also check for small cracks on the roof where the top back corner of the side window meets. Not much you can do about them, but this is an indication that the car was driven hard and the body flexed a lot and cracked at the weak spot. (too much power and no subframe connectors)
#3
RE: 89 camaro diagnostic
Thanks for the tips z28pete!
I realize I asked a really general question but I appreciate the specific items you gave - Ill keep an eye out.
The car in question is becoming more and more mysterious because the current owner (a bit of a 'rich kid') cant really tell me what is in the car. I am doing my homework and I have a camaro-fan friend that will help me make a decision.
Right now Im just going to write down all the numbers I can and look up codes, as I DO NOT trust the badges on the car/engine. The kid says z28 but Im going to really dig, because as I understand it : it is difficult to *prove* that a camaro is a z28 when it doesnt have the original engine.
Again thanks! Ill update with pics and more info as it becomes available.
I realize I asked a really general question but I appreciate the specific items you gave - Ill keep an eye out.
The car in question is becoming more and more mysterious because the current owner (a bit of a 'rich kid') cant really tell me what is in the car. I am doing my homework and I have a camaro-fan friend that will help me make a decision.
Right now Im just going to write down all the numbers I can and look up codes, as I DO NOT trust the badges on the car/engine. The kid says z28 but Im going to really dig, because as I understand it : it is difficult to *prove* that a camaro is a z28 when it doesnt have the original engine.
Again thanks! Ill update with pics and more info as it becomes available.
#4
RE: 89 camaro diagnostic
One thing you can do is to break down the VIN number and it should tell you which engine came with the car, if it was built with a 6, it is definetely not a z28. If the new engine is an LT1, the big give away is that the distributor is mounted on the front cover under the water pump. There are two sizes of LT1 engines and several versions. And they look alike from the outside. There is 4.3L (262") used on Caprices, and a 5.7L (350") used on Impala, Camaro, Roadmaster, some Cadillacs, Corvette, and optional in Caprices. Of the 5.7L, the most desireable one is the Corvette version, built with aluminum heads, high compression, 4 bolt mains. The Camaro version is the same as the Corvette except it has 2 bolt mains. The one used on the big cars, uses iron heads, 2 bolt mains and lower compression. The 4.3 is a waste of time. Hope this helps a little.
Pete
Pete
#6
RE: 89 camaro diagnostic
ORIGINAL: z28pete
Besides engine and transmission, give the suspension the once over. Check for bad shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, sagging springs, uneven tire wear. Check wheel alignment and trust angle. Check the brakes, Check driveshaft for bad U joints, they make a clunking noise as you get off and on the gas. Check for noisy wheel bearings. Also check for small cracks on the roof where the top back corner of the side window meets. Not much you can do about them, but this is an indication that the car was driven hard and the body flexed a lot and cracked at the weak spot. (too much power and no subframe connectors)
Besides engine and transmission, give the suspension the once over. Check for bad shocks, ball joints, tie rod ends, sagging springs, uneven tire wear. Check wheel alignment and trust angle. Check the brakes, Check driveshaft for bad U joints, they make a clunking noise as you get off and on the gas. Check for noisy wheel bearings. Also check for small cracks on the roof where the top back corner of the side window meets. Not much you can do about them, but this is an indication that the car was driven hard and the body flexed a lot and cracked at the weak spot. (too much power and no subframe connectors)
Taking donations BTW :-P