So i decided before i do any mods to my engine im gonna pull it and send it to the machine shop to get checked out and refurbished. I figured this would be a wise time to do a stroker kit and a new cam. who makes a good stroker kit and how much do they usually go for? or is that somthing the machine shop might be able to put together for a better price than me buying it myself?

 

I don't know about the price, but you need to have the kit ready before the block is worked on. The shop will most likely have to grind the bottom rails to get clearance for the longer stroke. Talk to the machine shop people & find out what they recommend.

 

Well there are two types. One with a 5.7" rod and one with a 6" rod. The 6" rod requires a small base circle cam. How far do you want to bore it out? The 6" connecting rod produces more torque since it has a longer power stroke.
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294774852
What size combustion chambers are you going to use. You should decide on what compression ratio you would want to run before you decide the kit so you can also figure out the size and shape of the piston.
Price can range from $1000-4000
It just depends on where you get it from, and what compenents you want.

 

Too start with I would decide what hp range you want, it will help in deciding what kit you are looking for. To help you decide see if your machine shop can tell you what they think the block will handle. The 3.75 inch crank will create more stress on the bottom end than your standard crank. To note on the kits: some are balanced some are not. An unbalanced kit needs to be balance by the machine shop. A separate issue is that a standard 400 crank(3.75 stroke) is externally balanced some kits are this way you cannot use your 350 flex plate/flywheel or damper on these you need externally balanced stuff. If you get a kit that is internally balanced you can use your 350 stuff(as long as the power output is within reason). Rod length determines rod ratio there are alot of arguments both ways on this the 6 " will allow more dwell at tdc the 5.7 dosnt have the wrist pin in the ring land area piston speed changes ect ect I wouldnt get to caught up in it ask you machine shop for advice. Pay attention to materials which the parts are made of certion aluminum pistons are better for the street and some for the track the higher grades of aluminum usally expand more but are stronger they require more clearance and can result in piston slap at startup and thus are not designed for street use, the higher silicon alloy pistons expand less are not as strong but are better for street use. Rods can be I beam, H beam, aluminum they are all rated for hp and application the rod bolts are also rated and will make a differance in strength. Crank shafts are also rated the newer cast cranks are rated fairly high(some say to high) and there are different levels of forged crank steel also each is rated for hp. I have tried to give a overview of things I noticed when buying these kits since we dont have a consumer report for them we really have to compair apples to apples to make the best application choice. Check jegs, summit, cnc motorsports,speedway, eagle sometimes has deals on their website scat is another just do a search there are lots of sources.

 

I don't believe in buying pistons until You have the block rough bored. Many times, customers would come in with a block that would not clean up at .030" oversize and already have the .030" pistons in hand. I have to call them and tell them to send their pistons bact and trade them for some +.040" over pistons. Everybody has given You good advice and TMI ( too much information ) in some cases. Go online with Eagle and see what kit is within Your budget. Then have Your machine shop prep Your block and order the kit You want.

 

Yea your right I really went on with that one, I have a tendency of looking at things in to much detail sometimes sorry

 

well just for the information. a 377 cui engine will performe better than the 383cui. i dont know why but trust me. i pulled the 383 out of my camaro just to put the 377 back into it. it runs smoother. its sounds crazy, but i do what works best. eagle products is the best way to go for the bottom end. try to blue print and balance the engine and even call summit or jegs. those guys can really help you out. but what i want to know is what bottom end you have. 2 or four bolt main.

 

What're the specs on the 377? Is that a 400 block with a shortened stroke or something?

 

haha, thats ok man. Im an auto student so I was able to follow you and you really explained tht well. I didnt realize there was so much to deal with stroking out an engine. Thanx for the info andthe advice!

 

You are welcome.

For the previous post the 377 is a 400 block with a 350 crank One guy I know hed run one in a 79 camaro drag car it ran good, all things being equal though I would go with 400 ++ cubes in a good 400 block its hard to overcome the cubic inches.