1983 Z28, potential buy
#11
I bought it for $1,300. I am currently working on replacing everything to get it to pass the state inspection. I'd like to replace all the shocks, however they are not needed to pass inspection. ive replaced the front and rear sway bar endlinks, im guessing they were original, front ones weren't even connected! all the ball joints are ok, the tie rod ends are good. I removed both front rotors and cleaned them up, sanded everything down, including the pads. I cleaned all the bearings and repacked them (they looked good) I will replace the bearings when i need pads, which have about 40% left. the only thing i havnt checked are the rear drums. They are both working evenly.
Car runs really good now that i cleanded up the carb linkages and ive run some fresh seafoam treated gas through it. I replaced the bad vacuum lines and it runs so smoothly. Gave it fresh oil/filter today. It doesnt burn any, even if it sits after being hot. Odometer currently reads 92,509 they are original and accurate. I checked the rear differential fluid, it is full, i will get to changing that after it is inspected. I also want to change the tranny fluid, however i might just have Chevy do it because i dont want to mess with taking that oil pan off. and i will have them do the rear diff- fluid too.
Car runs really good now that i cleanded up the carb linkages and ive run some fresh seafoam treated gas through it. I replaced the bad vacuum lines and it runs so smoothly. Gave it fresh oil/filter today. It doesnt burn any, even if it sits after being hot. Odometer currently reads 92,509 they are original and accurate. I checked the rear differential fluid, it is full, i will get to changing that after it is inspected. I also want to change the tranny fluid, however i might just have Chevy do it because i dont want to mess with taking that oil pan off. and i will have them do the rear diff- fluid too.
#12
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
You need to do a stomp test. Start the car then push on the brake pedal as hard as you can with both feel. Here in PA it is part of the state inspection. I have been working on cars for 30 years and there is no way I would take a car with a 30 year old master cylinder over 20 MPH.
That is a mistake that almost cost me my life, its not one I would repeat. Infact it was a 22 year brake system in a Vet. It passed the stomp test and I had just finsh redoing the whole fuel system cause the car sat for 3 years. New Tank, fuel lines, pump and rebuilt the carb.Gave her a tune up and saftey inspection. everything looked fine. The test drive was 4 miles by the time I got back to the shop the car needed a master cylinder and 3 calipers rebuild. Thank god it was a stick. Without down shifting I would have been in the back end of a semi.
If I had to guess I would say the stomp test cracked the seals but it held. 10 pumps later the whole system failed.
That is a mistake that almost cost me my life, its not one I would repeat. Infact it was a 22 year brake system in a Vet. It passed the stomp test and I had just finsh redoing the whole fuel system cause the car sat for 3 years. New Tank, fuel lines, pump and rebuilt the carb.Gave her a tune up and saftey inspection. everything looked fine. The test drive was 4 miles by the time I got back to the shop the car needed a master cylinder and 3 calipers rebuild. Thank god it was a stick. Without down shifting I would have been in the back end of a semi.
If I had to guess I would say the stomp test cracked the seals but it held. 10 pumps later the whole system failed.
#15
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,462
I wrote a huge response to this but I just deleted it. Please think about restoring the entire brake system. The original design engineer and manufacturer NEVER intended for any of these parts to last 20 years no less 30.
These parts where designed and tested for 10 years of service.
These parts where designed and tested for 10 years of service.
#16
Well i did take apart the front brakes, cleaned them all up and and put everything back together with caliper grease. the guide pins were all rusted up but now slide smoothly. As far as the mast cylinder, i talked to my dad who has been a truck driver for 28 years....yes trucks have air brakes, but as car as clutches and brakes go, 99% of the time the master cylinder doesnt just FAIL instantly. normally you get a little bit of bleed off that if you know your car well enough, you will notice it and fix it before it is a problem
#17
I have pictures of it when i first looked at it when it was in rough shape. im gunna wait till i get it cleaned up and waxed to take some more. IM going to detail it once i get it on the road, and insurance this week. how the heck do you put pictures in a post anyway?