Hey everyone, tell me what you think. .

9.5" deck Dart tall deck small block -.336" raised big block cam wide skirt pan rails clearance .
6.100" length light weight rods for 2" rod journals .
1.062" This piston is based on 1.062" MAHLE inverted dome NON-gas port, 18.1cc relief Piston 2015 low expansion forging.
2.338" radius crank 4.676" stroke 2" rod journals small gun drilled callies custom magnum XL 4330/4340crank..
4.130" bore sleeve in + 4.185" bore block. Thick sleeve.. With the 4.185" bore it comes to 515 cubic inches.
501 cubic inches (501.1346") Heads: taken to 77cc from 75cc or 72cc CAM; example cam of Intake Valve Closing @ 72* degrees./ 288*/298* @.006" other specification unknown overlap is 64 to 66* degrees 4 pattern hydraulic roller , 4 and 7 swap Static Compression Ratio 10.88:01 & Dynamic Compression Ratio: 8.35:01 If works well shall authorize MLS or regular .037" through .040" head gaskets for the combo from 4" bores and up Heads , I figure anything like AFR 185cc comp cut, 195's 200cc, etc., Pro Maxx (the Maxx series or better only), Must have Phosphor bronze valve guide tubes, This is a street daily driven engine and can lower compression down to 7.5 DCR and smaller cams large chamber vortec heads etc..

 

wow and I thought the 434 I was building was mean.... I considered the 4/7 swap but the extra money and small gain isnt justified for what I am doing with the car. I did go with the AFR 220cc eliminator heads so it can breathe, then I'll be swapping the 177 weiand blower off the engine ion the Camaro now to it. Run about 6 lbs boost for normal driving and bump the pullies/octane up when I take it to the local strip. Comp makes a short travel hydraulic lifter that will give you some extra revs...
https://www.compcams.com/short-trave...all-block.html
They would be better than the full hydraulics, and not as good as going with solids. Good overlap can also help with CR and detonation since your not going with a blower or turbo, and it will give that motor a nasty idle. The one thing I miss about my blower motor is the crackly lumpy idle.

 

cool, thank you . your 434 supercharged 177 the huge mini , wow. thats kind of like a 611 cubic incher itself, you have the cog belt conversion that the big blowers have? pretty much fixes belt slip good -gets those numbers back on the board , a lot of them.

 

I've seen pics of the cog belts on the small blowers... They do look cool and add teh whine, but the 434 is "supposed" to put out around 630hp, then add the extra ponies from the blower... I may have to detune it a bit, so a little slip while on the street is okay.... Also, I don't have a burst plate on this thing like I did the 6/71, I'd be afraid of a backfire lifting the blower when I was 600 miles from home in it. If you build that thing I want to see pics of it!!!

 

I have a 1979 Z-28 RS with a 377 cubic inch small block with a Weiand 140 mini blower .It has all the "toys" in it as well. It used to be my daily driver at one time .But since I have had it painted not so much .I have my 1981 El Camino for that .My engine has 8:1 compression and can run over 500 HP with the "max" setup .And less wth the normal one just under that. Mine has a Super T-10 4 speed and 3;42 gears .It was what I call "interesting when I drove it in the snow..I drove Truck Class A and B CDL at the time So I know throttle control of which helps in cars like ours in wet weather . And you can always experiment on pulley set ups .for daily driver and if you want to "play" and keep the tune up data and pulleys in the trunk.Good luck too you on your build .

 

The rod ratio is only 1.30 to 1. That is a lot of lateral load on the skirt and cyl. wall. With a sleeve that has a .0275" wall, you'll be replacing sleeves soon than later. Pretty tight ring stack at 1.062, putting the oil ring in the wrist pin hole on a street engine. Just my 2 cents...

 

It is a lot of lateral load, but it will run.. rod ratios are meant to be 8 pistons to 1 crankshaft.. They make the most horsepower that way... Seriously, I have built and run a lot of stroker motors, and currently run a 489 big block in my truck daily with a rod ratio that is close to that.. it has about 60K on it and is still going strong. However if your looking for a 200K mile motor, that won;t be it.

 

"rod ratios are meant to be 8 pistons to 1 crankshaft" That has nothing to do with rod ratio. Put a scope in the spark plug hole at BDC and check your cross hatch on the drivers side cylinder wall. I think a 502 big block is a better choice for the street with a 1.53 rod ratio, if you're wanting a 500" street engine...

 

No. Not even close... thats not even fun in comparison Al.. your missing the entire point with logic, where logic has no place in that build whatsoever.. Interesting, cool, exciting and different, FUN!!!!!, along with an excellent sense of humor, and you are missing them all! AND 8 rods to 1 crankshaft IS the correct ratio of rods to crankshaft if your talking about a V8! Surely even YOU cant argue with that logic?

 

The OP stated:"Hey everyone, tell me what you think." So I gave my opinion for it as a street engine. Rod ratio IS the rod length divided by the stroke.