Yav, are you a politician?
I still didn't hear what treat he's in for when doing a future cam swap on a 2 piece seal engine vs a one piece?
And by all means, do it right so you don't have to worry about tearing into the engine again. If you're already thinking your cam isn't enough now, it's probably not going to be once you get it all done and start the regret and thinking maybe you should have gone with more. Not to mention, since you don't reuse flat tappet lifters, those will be lost with a later cam change.

 

Sorry I should have said a cam swap in general. The one piece motors use a one pieces pan gasket verses the older 4 piece cork and rubber gaskets. If you don't reinstall the front seal just right when you pull the timing cover it usually leaks on the two pieces blocks. If you use a one piece updated pan gasket then just dab or spot of silicon on the block and pan and bolt it up. If not done right the first time then you get to do it over or just let it drip. I have done a few and I don't look forward to doing it. As for the lifters just keep them marked as to what lobes they were on the cam and sell it as a used cam and lifters. If its a roller just reuse the roller lifters over again.

 

I'm hoping to end up with about a 9.5:1 compression ration, I need to look around and double check the numbers as I've seen different ones advertiested. A -7 cc speed pro flate top shows 9.8:1 and that's probably liveable but it's on the high side. The cam I'm using is mile as I think it's a better fit for the goals I have in mind and will work well w/o a stall convertor. I'm not planning to drag it or spray it.

My crank is toast so a quality assembly is needed an eagle crank/con rods/speed pro pistons and bearing kit is only $630 and I think will work fine. Will I be shy of 400hp? Oh heck yes, probably 300-350 depending on alot of other variables but it'll do pig, it'll do.

 

I've had very little trouble with 4 piece pan gaskets leaking. I've had all sorts of trouble with one piece gaskets when trying to do a change in the car! The one piece is a pain to install in the car, as they keep trying to fall out of place from all the weight of the gasket. With a 4 piece I can use RTV to stick each piece in place, and a little extra in the corners, and no problems. Biggest issue with either is the pan to crossmember clearance! Usually need to lift the engine enough to drop the pan and get it out.
I've had zero luck selling a used cam, even with everything marked for lifter location. I'd never buy one, and seems everyone else feels the same. Best I've ever done was $20 to a friend who knew how used it was.

 

If only engines would come with 'cam-swap' timing covers...

 

I just tossed two cams and two sets of lifters in the scrap metal bin! Had them all sorted in cardboard to keep lifters assigned to their lobes, but after getting no replies on CL ad at $20 ea. WITH lifters, they went in the scrap bin.
As for one piece or two piece pan gaskets. You can buy a one piece pan gasket for a 2 piece rear main seal also; they aren't a one piece seal only item. I still wouldn't use them after fighting to get an expensive $35 one piece to seal on my buddy's 350. They have those stupid anti crush sleeves around the bolt holes and they stop the gasket from being properly compressed, so it leaked like a sieve!

 

A little dab of sealer on all four corners and its done. The factory got away from the separate old gaskets back in 86. I have no problem with just dropping the front nuts and then all the rail bolts. Leave the back on and just loosen enough for the pan to drop down in the front enough to get the front timing chain cover off. Little dab of sealer and bolt it back up. If you trying to replace a old pan gaskets with a new one pieces seal one when the motor is in the vehicle that's a different story.