Transmission Mount
Thread Starter
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1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 103
Transmission Mount
so I got my new holley carb on my 350
brought my 350 back to life
bad news
first test drive, the transmission mount collapsed, completely busted
How should I go about replacing it? Can I do this on my own?
I have a local shop thatd charge me parts and one hour of labor
But how could I do this on my own?
And anyway to reinforce the new mount I put on?
I have a shift kit in the tranny
brought my 350 back to life
bad news
first test drive, the transmission mount collapsed, completely busted
How should I go about replacing it? Can I do this on my own?
I have a local shop thatd charge me parts and one hour of labor
But how could I do this on my own?
And anyway to reinforce the new mount I put on?
I have a shift kit in the tranny
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 18
Your mechanic has an hour minimum; it should only be charged at .5
Its is a 15-20 min job on your back after the first few slow times of doing the tranny mount; block the front wheels, jack the rear end up (by the diff pumpkin) support it really well, let me re-stress this support the car really good!! Unbolt the mount from the tranny and cross member (two bolts tranny, one nut cross member maybe two). Then place another jack under the tranny oil pan with a piece of wood about the size of the pan on top to keep from damaging the pan. Raise the tranny high enough to get the old one out and new one in (about an inch +/-) lower and tighten.
Just to make sure, once again support the car really good, you're pushing up off your supports a little bit, I use two jack stands towards the outside of the axel. Also I use two jacks and one stays on the pumpkin, its overkill but I haven't had a car try and kill me either! I have also used a scissor jack and peice of wood on the tranny but you have to be careful they like to pop out, :-)!
If the mount has been worn for a while when you first dive the car it may be making some strange noises. These are your cars happy pains having its drive line back in line, the noises will settle down after 15 min or so, just take it easy until they do settle. If it does not settle down in a day you waited to long to get the mount fixed and wore something in your drive line.
With any of the muscle cars you should have several choices for the tranny mount itself:
1. OEM - crap they wear fast
2. Polyurethane - red, black… - better, lasts longer almost as stiff as solid's but with smooth ride for the street.
3. Hydraulic - in my opinion the best, if they make them for your year they are stiff but still adsorb shock at a slower controlled rate reducing vibration better.
4. Solid metal - the mount breaks before it wears out after it can break out of the tranny case; also adds stress to the crank, tranny, driveshaft and rear end. Solids are used mostly on race tracks but some people just like the feel of the frame twist and vibration with solid engine and tranny mounts.
Depending on your driving habits I've had mounts last from 60,000 to 140,000 with muscle cars and my lead foot. Then another 15 min's under the car and I'm at it again! Engine mounts also come hydraulic, polyurethane and solid.
Its is a 15-20 min job on your back after the first few slow times of doing the tranny mount; block the front wheels, jack the rear end up (by the diff pumpkin) support it really well, let me re-stress this support the car really good!! Unbolt the mount from the tranny and cross member (two bolts tranny, one nut cross member maybe two). Then place another jack under the tranny oil pan with a piece of wood about the size of the pan on top to keep from damaging the pan. Raise the tranny high enough to get the old one out and new one in (about an inch +/-) lower and tighten.
Just to make sure, once again support the car really good, you're pushing up off your supports a little bit, I use two jack stands towards the outside of the axel. Also I use two jacks and one stays on the pumpkin, its overkill but I haven't had a car try and kill me either! I have also used a scissor jack and peice of wood on the tranny but you have to be careful they like to pop out, :-)!
If the mount has been worn for a while when you first dive the car it may be making some strange noises. These are your cars happy pains having its drive line back in line, the noises will settle down after 15 min or so, just take it easy until they do settle. If it does not settle down in a day you waited to long to get the mount fixed and wore something in your drive line.
With any of the muscle cars you should have several choices for the tranny mount itself:
1. OEM - crap they wear fast
2. Polyurethane - red, black… - better, lasts longer almost as stiff as solid's but with smooth ride for the street.
3. Hydraulic - in my opinion the best, if they make them for your year they are stiff but still adsorb shock at a slower controlled rate reducing vibration better.
4. Solid metal - the mount breaks before it wears out after it can break out of the tranny case; also adds stress to the crank, tranny, driveshaft and rear end. Solids are used mostly on race tracks but some people just like the feel of the frame twist and vibration with solid engine and tranny mounts.
Depending on your driving habits I've had mounts last from 60,000 to 140,000 with muscle cars and my lead foot. Then another 15 min's under the car and I'm at it again! Engine mounts also come hydraulic, polyurethane and solid.
Thread Starter
|
1st Gear Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 103
damn thanks for the thorough response, definitely was i was hoping to get in a response
think this looks okay?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...etrain#reviews
think this looks okay?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...etrain#reviews
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 18
I took a quick look at, scroll way down for your 74 V8 350
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Chevrolet+Camaro+1974
The have both your engine and tranny mounts for $62.37 I couldn't see the shipping cost
One thing to know is if your tranny mount is wiped out there is a possibility it was caused by worn engine mounts. The energy engine mounts are inserted in your old engine mount brackets after removing the old rubber.
Doing the engine takes a littler longer but is the same idea after jacking and supporting you take the weight off the mount bolts jacking under the oil pan, remove the main bolts, then unbolting the engine mounts, removing the old rubber inserting the new energies and putting it back together.
Don't forget all the nuts and bolts have a proper toque setting
There still may be a better price but shipping is where they land a sneak attack and raise the cost.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Chevrolet+Camaro+1974
The have both your engine and tranny mounts for $62.37 I couldn't see the shipping cost
One thing to know is if your tranny mount is wiped out there is a possibility it was caused by worn engine mounts. The energy engine mounts are inserted in your old engine mount brackets after removing the old rubber.
Doing the engine takes a littler longer but is the same idea after jacking and supporting you take the weight off the mount bolts jacking under the oil pan, remove the main bolts, then unbolting the engine mounts, removing the old rubber inserting the new energies and putting it back together.
Don't forget all the nuts and bolts have a proper toque setting
There still may be a better price but shipping is where they land a sneak attack and raise the cost.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 8
From: Germany
Transmission Mount
Thanks for the correction. Im sure theres more error than just one.. I try to do my best.Back on topic: It is impossible to rebuilt a R32? is it because the parts doesnt exist anymore?And yes, JDMSKYLINE charge me 1000 for labour another tranny. And I will go try the car with him before paying. If its not good, he will swap his second transmission for no extra charges. I guess I can have 3 of these transmission swap before getting to my 3000 rebuilt one. Also, is it guarentee that a rebuilt transmission will last longer than 3 or 4 used one?