Tomorrow afternoon i am heading into the city and am buying a new MSD cap, rotor and digital coil. I know 100% i am running way way to rich on this but at least it was running before. We had problems with the original module in the HEI so we stole one out of an old Accel (i think) unit and got it going. That one messed up on friday and he put in an msd board from another HEI. I am just going to throw some parts at it and hopefully it will run.

I also need to buy a carb kit for my Holly carb for the dyno shop in August, i am really hoping the parts fix the **** that is going on right now.

The fuel pressure is running at 6psi right now so i am going to leave it for the time being. Still am going to do something else just dont know what yet. I may put on the mechanical pump and just be done with all of the fuel problems. I took a sniff of my dipstick today and the crank case definately has fuel in it.

 

If there's enough excess fuel in the engine to stink up the oil, it needs to get changed, and the issue addressed right away. Don't want to wipe out the bearings or wet down the rings on the new engine!
It may need the idle circuit restricted to lean it out. Some of them are too rich, no matter what you do, and only a restrictor will lean them enough. I don't think 6 psi is an issue, as long as you know the gauge is correct, and the pressure isn't getting higher.
Hope you get the spark part working, and then you can work the rest out after it's running.

 

Yeah i will have the oil changed immediately. Once i get the car running again, i will get an alignment done and get it to the dyno shop, no other driving. Will update when i get the parts on.

 

Ok good news and some not so good news today.

The not so good news is i went out and spent a couple hundred dollars on parts that i didnt need, installed them and cant take them back. The good news is i found what my problem is. The wire coming from the ignition doesnt have enough voltage to power the distributor properly. Will probably still use the same signal wire but will use it as a signal wire to a relay that is hooked directly to + and a fuse on the battery. Next step is to tighten up the front coil overs again and get the oil changed. From there i will have an alignment done and will be able to drive it into the city for tuning on August 12th. I guess i can call today a success. Figured out a nifty way to check for a cylinder not firing as well. Use a timing light and hook it on each plug wire, we didnt have batteries for the temp gun.

 

Yes, those electronic distributors, and control modules require a good 12v. source! My MSD-6AL instructions call for a 10awg-12awg source wire direct from the battery and switched, or with a relay to bring it on. Seems they must draw some amperage to require that large a wire gauge!
Glad you got the issue figured out, but too bad about having to buy spare parts.

 

Really im not to stressed out about it. Im just happy that i found out what was wrong and now i can get it dyno tuned.

 

A bottle of water or even spitting on a header tube works too! Glad you got it. Did you guys wire it from the factory harness? And if so does it still have the ballast resistor in line? Just thinking out loud, but it happens a bunch. My MSD is straight off the 12v that my HEI once used. Never had an issue. Nothing wrong with a relay though.

 

Not sure they had a ballast resistor? Wasn't it just a resistor wire originally? If so, then replacing the resistor wire would fix the issue.

 

Any idea what color that would be. My wiring harness is pretty hacked up so it's difficult to trace. This is the fourth engine I know of that has been in this car.

 

Suds this may help and Val I dont see any resistor. Suds, the diagrams are in this order. 70 engine, 71 engine. 73 engine, the final two are 73 fuse block and under dash.