Jeez, you BB guys must need all the help you can get. I'm running a single electric fan with no shroud, and maybe it gets up to 190 in traffic.
No I'm wrong, it did get up to 200 once (oh man was I sweating bullets that time)!!
On the highway, no shroud will work better since the fan does literally nothing for cooling. In traffic, a shroud might help, but might not need it.
With a belt driven fan, where the blade tends more to be a mile away from the radiator by comparison, then yes a shroud will help in traffic to funnel the air through the radiator.
Try it without, and see what you get.

 

Soooo.... any-way......

I'm going to bolt the fan in-between the radiator and engine to pull air.
If it runs too hot, I'll put my stock shroud back in and bolt the fan to the it where the flex fan was and see how that dose.
It will look cleaner than stock IMO ether way, so thank you all for your input on the subject.

 

lol.....this is a "discussion", not a fight!

 

I got her running today. I started off on a good note by setting the timing off by 180*..... again.....
Pulled the distributor and reset it.
Fired right up.
I've got to re-tune the carb and redo the plug wires as I just wanted to get it running before dark.
Pics and a video if I can tomorrow. I'm working out the wiring for the electric fan with the spare parts I have in my garage. Moneys getting tight with Xmass right around the corner.
Thanks to every one that helped me out thus far.

 

Next time you stab the dizzy. Bump it up to tdc with a napkin or paper or even a finger in the #1 hole then set the balancer to 0* on the mark. Point the rotor at #1. Wire the cap starting in order after the rotor. Mine hit every time. Never have fire ***** nor have I ever been 180* out.

 

Today I'm still sorting out the fan. Its a 12v/ 160watt. If I wanted to just flip a switch on the dash, how do you guys think I should wire it in? Just a 20 amp fuse with a relay hooked to the ignition and the main power for the fan pulled from the battery?

I'm still no good with this stuff....lol

 

A 20 a. fuse should be fine as that fan draws about 13 a., and a bit more at startup. A relay is always a good idea to feed a fan circuit, so there wont be any issues with burning up switches. Going from the battery and directly into a fuse holder is a good idea, then put that to the contacts on the relay. The control circuit should be from a small fused circuit that is keyed on with the ingition switch, and then to a thermostat control that pulls the coil in on the relay.
Here's a diagram:

 

Sweet! Thanks.
I'm off to dig tho my scrap wiring harness dox.

 

I agree a relay is best and a thermostatically controlled switch. I had a Escort GT when I was about 18 that I wired the fan by jumping the relay. It caused the engine to run on after the car shut off because I assume the fan created a current while spinning and back fed the ignition somehow.

 

Got everything back together and went for a weekend trip to Jefferson city witch is about an hour north. The engine did not miss a beat. started every time and sounded great except for a slight ticking sound. I adjusted the rocker arms after I got home, but I have not had a chance to check if that fixed it as Im still working on the cooling fan.
In the mean time, I've removed my old dash and removed the glued on skin from the plastic backing. I plain to make a fiberglass copy of it to insure I get all the mounting points and tabs in the correct places. Then I'll smooth it out and reattach the lower half including the glove-box.