76 Fuzz buster

Old Nov 9, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #301  
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Im getting everything ready to bolt on in the morning. I need to fix the oil gauge hook up on the back of the block. Its seeping oil.

I have the serpentine pulley system ready to install. I have the option to run the stock cooling fan or install an electric one that I have.
It can pull the air or push it. What do you guys think?
I measured it out ad did a quick doodle of how it would fit.
 
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Last edited by oldman9; Nov 9, 2012 at 03:09 PM.
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 04:50 PM
  #302  
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I prefer an electric fan for less drag on the engine, plus you don't need it to be on while cruising the open road. Better to have a puller fan (engine side of radiator). That gives you more air movement across the engine, which helps to cool it. And don't worry about shrouding the radiator beyond the fan, that'll make you run hotter.
 
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #303  
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Ok, thank you. I'm picking up a dual relay kit that will make it kick on at a preset timp. I'd like to find a way to make it keep running for a few seconds after I shut off the engine. A toggle switch would be the simplest way I guess.
 
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #304  
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Dakota Digital makes a module to turn on 1 or 2(both together or as high and low temp) electric fans plus stay on after you shut the car off if you set it up. It's designed to use either an existing sensor output to a gauge or one of their own sensors. Worth a look. I'm thinking of getting one as I have their digital instrument cluster and it works with it.
 
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:30 AM
  #305  
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Shrouding the radiator wont make it run hotter IF you mount the fan off the surface of the radiator a couple inches, but if it's tight to the core, then shrouding will make it hotter. Always run any fan as a puller if you have the option. Pushers are less efficient, and wont cool as well.
 
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #306  
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Shrouding can act like a wall and restrict the air flow through the radiator fins when open road driving, regardless of where the fan is.
Helped solve a friends overheating problems once because of the (tapered) shroud restriction. Removing it did wonders.
 
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #307  
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I'm going to go with out the shroud if I can.
Got some paint on the heads and bolted them in place but not tight.
Its a 1989 350 with 1994 heads. Any thoughts on what I should set my torque wrench to? I have the proper pattern in my overhaul book, but I dont want to mess up a brand new set of gaskets or the heads.....
 
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 12:15 AM
  #308  
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Follow the sequence, jumping torque up in 3 steps. Final torque is 68 ft lbs. And don't forget to use thread sealer on the bolts.
 
Old Nov 11, 2012 | 04:04 AM
  #309  
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Were you old heads of that vintage? If not you will need to oblong the center bolt holes on the intake to get then to thread. Just a heads up.
 
Old Nov 11, 2012 | 10:14 AM
  #310  
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No shroud will usually result in overheating in traffic, as the fan will not pull and cool the entire radiator. A good shroud should not restrict the air flow if it's built withproper angles, and not those restrictive right angles. A shroud will also keep hot air from reciculating around the radiator and back through, which has a cumulative affect on heating.
 

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