76 Fuzz buster

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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #281  
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Originally Posted by oldman9
Good news and bad news.

I'll start with the bad.
Did anyone ever place a quarter on a railroad track for a train to run over and flatten out?
That's all of the barrings on the crank and connecting rods.
The block will be ok after I get it line bored I think. It seems like it just lost oil presser or something as ALL the barrings where spun or missing there tangs. It had an oil filter relocater with hook ups for an external oil cooler. I Really don't trust this thing at all.

The good news is that I'll be able to use the old crank for an interesting mailbox post.

All in all, I think I got my $50 from the heads and block.
Sounds like a candidate for a 383 build since you need a crank either way!
 
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 04:31 PM
  #282  
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Originally Posted by oldman9
Good news and bad news.
I'll start with the bad.
Did anyone ever place a quarter on a railroad track for a train to run over and flatten out?
lol....I thought you were then going to say you derailed a train! And I wasn't rich when I did that, I used a penny!
 
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 05:28 PM
  #283  
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
lol....I thought you were then going to say you derailed a train! And I wasn't rich when I did that, I used a penny!
My brother and I got caught putting pennies, pebbles, and whatever we could find on the railroad tracks as kids. The RR detective asked us our names, etc. and when he got to our dad's name he recognised him as the Chief Electrician for the RR.
Man did we get it when my dad got home from work!
 
Old Oct 19, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #284  
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I think the fittings are for the stock oil cooler. My 91 pickup had one. It souds like that motor lost complete oil flow. To kill everything. I agree it's just as cheap to stroke it. All mine will be from now on. This is my first so I had the machine shop grind the block. I had to touch it up after I got rods in there but it is easy when you know where to grind.
 
Old Oct 20, 2012 | 11:46 PM
  #285  
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My brother and I got caught doing much worse. Like once we were dropping fire crackers in the basement window of a warehouse a block over from the house. The guy in charge there found us sitting our steps later that day. He was kind enough to explain to us they were a running saws and such and that we could have caused someone to loose a finger. He then got in his car and left. We never did it again and our parents still don't know. Shhhh!
 
Old Oct 28, 2012 | 05:57 PM
  #286  
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I've not gotten' much done lately with work and a case of strep throat keeping me busy.
I got the heads tore down and started chipping layers of carbon off. I picked up a top-end gasket kit, a new water pump with reverse spin, and a new alternator.
I still have the fried block on my engine stand and I'm using that to fab up the new brackets for the serpentine belt system.
 
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Last edited by oldman9; Oct 28, 2012 at 05:59 PM.
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:02 AM
  #287  
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Waiting on some parts I ordered from ebay. I decided to sell my wheels and go with some stock camaro wheels. I love the way my current wheels look, but I hate how the front wheels have as much turning grip as a toaster.
I'm getting the stock wheels for almost free. Just need to get some new tires. They have 225 70/15 on them right now. Is that good enough or do you guys think I should get a different size? (like a lower profile or something)....
 
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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 04:40 PM
  #288  
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Todays looking up!
I got my new valve springs from o'rileys. I've never gotten brand new springs before. Is there anything I should do to them before I install them?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 04:29 AM
  #289  
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You should measure the pocket depth. The correct way to do it involves a micrometer designed to fit where the springs go. Valve springs have an "installed height" this sets the seat pressure as well as the open. Its the distance between the seat and the retainer. If they are put in with the improper height the spring can be soft and not control the valve or it could be too tight and bind the spring before the valve fully opens.

They can be done without checking but I do not. The tool is $60 from Summit. Then there are shims that help you get the desired installed height. I think I saw a set with .010",.015", and .020", eight of each for $16. Someone else may chime in with more. My opinion is don't gamble here. Bad chit can happen. Even a set of dial calipers to get a rough idea of where the seat is in relationship to the retainer is better than nothing.
 
Old Nov 1, 2012 | 07:28 PM
  #290  
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Thanks for the heads up on that. I called the machine shop here in town and they said they would assemble the heads for $55. I have them setting on the fried block still with a few bolts holding them down while I complete the brackets. I got to mounting the new alternator and noticed that it has the battery stud on the back and a 3 prong connector on the side. The old one only had a 2 prong one. Whats the 3rd wire for?

Large red
Small black
Small brown
 
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