window trim clips n door rubbers
 

hi ive just installed windows to my 79 and got her out in the daylight and am wondering if anyone has a picture of the trim clips for the window surrounds i have all the trim but no clips to hold it on also does anyone have any tips on door rubbers i fitted a full rubber kit and now doors wont shut flush to body:icon_doh: is there any way 2 soften them or do i just have 2 let them run in

As far as the clips for the window trim,i dont have any pictures,but i believe several of the camaro parts suppliers have them,there is also a store on ebay that sells the clips,his are plastic instead of metal,but they work just as good.As for the rubber weatherstripping it should settle after a while,when i replaced my weatherstrip in my trunk i had the same problem of not fitting flush,it eventually softened up and now fits just like it should.

I put new door, trunk, and window weatherstripping in my '71 back in Dec. of 2009. The trunk still has to slam to close. The doors are getting slightly better, but still need to give a fairly decent effort to latch.
I actually adjusted the door strikes out about 1/4" to start, then readjusted them in sligtly every few days, and now they're perfectly lined up. On the trunk I just slammed the trunk lid and let it sit for a couple weeks.
The windows have been the biggest pain of all the weatherstripping done! I've adjusted the door glass, glued the weatherstripping ends, and worked on all the rubber for weeks, and it's still not quite there. The passenger door glass looks and fits fine, but still have to open the doors to roll the glass up or down. Same with the driver's side, but I still can't roll it totally up and be able to close the door, even if slammed hard. It's very close, but not there yet.
Sat. I lifted the ends of the weather stripping to check the 3M adhesive and see if I got good coverage, as it seemed to be pulling away from the sheetmetal. I found I didn't get it all glued at the ends, so I applied more 3M and taped the ends down. I left the doors open while it dried, so they wouldn't disturb the glued pieces. It held, and seems a bit better, but still can't roll the glass normally.
I've got some GE silicone lube that we used to use on weatherstripping when I worked at the local Cadillac garage, and I'm going to try and lube the weatherstripping to see if that allows the glass to slide easier. If I can get that last thing working I think I'll finally have it.

i found a photo of the clips on nasty z forum and went scavenging thew my boxs of screws and found 6 metal ones and 3 plastic ones so shold be able to source some more now. regarding fitment do i fit cips then tap the trim on on? or whats the corect way to fit. thanks for the advice on the rubbers ill leave it out in the sun with the doors shut ant see if it gets any better glad to see its a normal problem and yeah i have to wind windows up with door open 2 tho mine are electric so thay get tight fast i want to convert to winders if i ever come across a set

The windows should have little posts situated all around the windows to mount the clips. They simple snap in place on the posts, but be sure the metal clips are properly shaped before installing them, as they often bend open when removing the trim.
Also be carefull installing them not to snap the posts off, as that can easily happen. (did on mine!) I had about 4 of my posts snap off, and they're welded, so no way to replace them. I ended up drilling and tapping each location for a 6-32 flathead screw. Then I put epoxy on the threads and screwed the clips in place. Seemed to work well, and held the trim fine.

hey i found new clips out here same clips as aussie 70s fords (think mad max)so im stoked and the door gap is getting better from leaving it out in the sun thanks for the help also has anyone tryed welding up the diff center in the standard 12 bolt or are minispools commonly avalable over there mine was a berlinetta imported from germany with a 305 t350 combo(now sharioff 454 sb) and is currently leavin 400meter single peeler marks in 3rd gear so i have to make alterations (not enuf smoke :icon_no:)the car was built for burnouts and weekend family track/burnout romps (baby seat fits between the harnesss)so legality means nothing is my diff weldable within car or shold i pull center out and go mental its currently a single peeler so i assume its not a positrack

I've welded them in the car before, and it can be done if you use a MIg, and not a stick welder that leaves a bunch of nasty slag. I personally wouldn't weld it, as it will only be good for straight line running, and the more turns you make the sooner it will snap the differential or axles!
If it were mine (and I did this to mine!) I'd install a Power Trax Locker kit. They're only around $350 and it will convert your rear to a full time locker that unlocks when you turn corners. I've had mine in for about 12 yrs. and it works sweet!

thanks just googled them and will try to find an aussie distributor was onley thinking of welding it up or minispooling as the car is sceduled for a 4link later in the year and was planing on a shortend 9 inch (this diff is a stop gap till funds recoop)and all or cars incuding my wifes everyday driver have minispools so were used to lockers. its got me thinking if i can make this diff strong enuf i may be able to shorten it to suit later but all up cost may blow out compared to a spooled 9 inch

How do you put up with the tire squawking whenever you go around a corner with a spooled rear? It drove me nuts when I spooled my '71 and drove it around town making all that tire noise!

have found the skipping noise is onley realy evident on concreate at low speed so its never worried us although i have found that skinny tyres make it more evident and the spool in my brothers one tonner ute skipps a lot more due to lack of weight my ute and wifes wagon are almost unnoticable as there heavyer and also after alot of abuse thay seem to have run in abit the onley time there a bit of a handfull are in heavy rain at high speed also my ute logged 60'000kms last year and 6 burnout comps inc summernats 1 t5 gearbox 1 cluchplate 2 headgaskets and around 30 rear tyres and diff hasent even been opened up the year before it chewed 3 lsds in the same timeframe so reliability trumps any nicetys in my book