So then, can it be said that my information is not bogus? I believe in doing things correctly the first time so I don't have to make shoddy adjustments later. I like to investigate things before I proceed. This is why I'm in no hurry to build/install my BBC into my Camaro quite yet. I'm gonna research before I do something half a**ed. I'm gonna do it like the General did it. After all, he's the one who designed the things. And that is precisely why I joined this forum, to glean information. So, get the engine and trans. mounts for a '70-'72 BBC powered Camaro and have at it with no worries about having to fix things after you've taken mindless shortcuts.

 

Yes, that can be said. Deciding which way to go is up to you. And there's really no sense trying to make your 76 look like a factory "correct" big block car, since the General stopped putting big blocks in the Camaro after the 72 model. Plus it's going to be more work to change your heater box setup, and that's if you can retrofit an older style to yours. You would need to research that further to see if they are compatible. In the long run, it might be easier to just make the engine fit with what you have, especially since originality isn't an issue.

 

Hey Camaro 69 mine still has the factory AC box and I was wondering if you've ever seen anyone put a BBC in a late '70s Camaro and still be able to retain the factory AC. I'm thinking with the big block, I can afford to carry around the AC for comfort and still give the kids on the street fits. : ) Now I have to admit that I've seen somebody asking about the AC box etc. from a '72 to either retrofit to something newer with a BBC transplant or for an original. Am I barking up the right tree?

PS: Forgive me for a partial hijack. ; )

 

My aplogies for using the term "bogus" on your info. The info is good, but still way too much work to accomplish what can be done cheaper, and easier, and still work as well.

Wouldn't exactly call it "mindless shortcuts". Since these ways of doing a SBC to BBC conversion have been in existence for more years than your car is old. Not only does this method work, and work with less effort and funds; it works for a long time. Hardly a mindless shortcut, just common sense hotrodding.
Everything Chevy did wasn't always for the best, or we wouldn't need warranties when these cars were new. Even Chevy found errors in their engineering and changed things later. A good example is the stock rubber mount. It wasn't interlocking in the beginning, but once a number of them broke and opened the throttle Chevy came out with the interlocking mount to fix the problem. Would you want a set of early non-interlocking mounts, just because they were original to a certain model year? I wouldn't.
There's lots of other examples of poor engineering on Chevrolets. I love Chevies, but I'd sure never want to go back to my C clip axles with bearings that don't have a race on the axle. I much prefer my outboard bearing kits with races. They've been on there since I installed them in 1985, and no more bearing problems, or axles to replace.
I guess I'm from the old school of hotrodding where I look at something and try to find a easier way to do what Chevy did, without compromising integrity or safety.

 

That's mainly why I was questioning what you were saying. The way it was written was implying that there was no difference in the BB frame mounts or the engine's location.

 

I think that's the only tree you can bark up!
Do some online searching and see if you can find where someone has been able to make a 72 and older AC box work on a newer model like yours. What you are trying to do is create something that GM didn't put out. With any kind of non-conventional swap comes a lot of research, some creativity, trial and error, a bit of back-peddling, a lot of swearing, and some bloody knuckles. All in the name of fun!!!

 

I have seen a big block modified from a small block that had factory AC. The owner took the heater core out and reversed the core 180 degress so that the outlets of the heater hoses were in the center of the box. He had the outlets lengthened by a radiator shop, as the box gets deeper towards the passenger side. Lots of work, but he kept his AC that way.

 

No, I knew there was a difference, but I couldn't understand why people kept saying the swap couldn't be done without using these factory frame and motor mounts to stagger the engine location.

 

I've found that just about anything can be done so long as you have a big enough hammer and saw!

 

It's so hard to make a point and get one's opinions etc. across on these internet forums. I understand what you're saying 71 and for the most part I agree. My only point is this: If I can forgo difficulties farther down the road by going to the extra trouble/expense of hunting down and installing the "proper"mounts, and I know we may part company on the definition of "proper" mounts, then that is what I'm gonna do. I can personally see no adverse effect of having the engine offset to the pass. side of the vehicle in any application. Unless you want to retain your AC as I have mentioned. That is why I made the suggestion to use the "proper" mounts. I like you have done things on the cheap and on the fly to get something done and get it on the road. No problem with that but it seems like there is always something that reminds me/you of the fact that a shortcut has been taken. I pride myself on the cleanliness and correctness of all my work. If you lift the hood on any car I care about and it isn't clean and tidy (not spotless necessarily) I'm embarrassed.