After getting some info from the great people on here I have decided to scrap the serp belt conversion for now. I am looking to put a diff water pump on the car though and was wondering if anyone here had any good suggestions. The one I have is stock and would like to get a higher flow one. Not looking to spend more than 200 bucks, don't need it polished or anything just looking to up the GPM flow. It is a long water pump also. And lastly I notice some pumps are year specific, however I do not know the year of my eng (350) how can I tell this. thanks for any inmput.

 

I'm running a Weiand aluminum hi flow, and love it. Price was super good at only $80 at Summit. I think they are universal, so have all the various outlets needed and plugs for any not used.
Looks like they've gone up since I bought mine, they're $98 now.
Weiand 9240 - Weiand Action Plus Mechanical Water Pumps - Application - SummitRacing.com

 

BB427, I am going to start calling you ol reliable. You always have quick and good responses. I appreciate it and will look into the Weiand pump.

 

I got mine from comp products. No brand name but it was around 60 bucks.

 

Year specific water pumps are mainly due to short, tall, with heater fitting and for the serp pumps reverse flow. The serpentine belt drive rotates the pump the oppisite way of the V-belt drive, so the impeller is cut to keep water flowing the right direction even tho it is going the other way. The LT1 water pump is 100% not compatable with other SBC pumps. It wont even bolt to the block.

Massey

 

again thanks for the info fellas. I can always count on this website for good info it seems

 

i have an almost new moroso aluminum water pump, increased flow, has aluminum extensions for long or short use. I had it on a 355 sb, its like new, 75.00. if interested, contact me a AOL.com - News, Sports, Weather, Entertainment, Local & Lifestyle

 

sorry camaros4ever, I already purchased one. thanks for the offer though. and thank you guys for helping me determine if it was a long or short pump.

 

OK, I have a 350 small block, v drive belt on my 74.

The car runs a little on the warm side when I have to sit in traffic, waiting on lights, etc... I would like it to run a little cooler. I recently yanked the 195 degree thermostat and tossed it aside, and the engine runs cooler while moving. I did NOT put another thermostat in.. I live in Texas, so the COLD is not an issue..

Someone once told me that a free flowing engine (no thermostat) may not cool as well as one WITH a thermostat. His reasoning was that the water is held in the radiator long enough to make a heat transfer when an engine has a thermostat of the right temp. ?? He said that with NO thermostat the water moves through the radiator TOO FAST and doesn't get enough heat transfer.. hmmm... That logic doesn't fit with my machine though, as when I pulled the thermostat my engine temp dropped about 15-20 degrees while the car is moving.

I have to admit though, my engine still runs about the same temp (as before with a thermostat) while sitting in traffic.. If my gauge is correct, the engine temp gets up to about 215-220 at prolonged idle (sitting in lines at dreaded red lights).

Any thoughts on:

1. that thermostat logic (in or out?)

2. ways in which I can cool my motor MORE? By the way, I have a pretty clean radiator and clean fluid. There is no fan clutch, it is direct drive with a flexible fans/fins. There is an A/C condensor in front of the radiator: A/C is not functioning though (for now, I do plan to eventually get the A/C running; assuming I can cool down this engine)

...and finally, I cannot be sure the gauge is reading the correct temp, though the engine 'feels' pretty warm when at it's hottest.. no pressure is blowing off, but the hoses are pretty 'tight' when she is hot.. She has a 16 lb. radiator cap..

thanks for any input/insight.

FC

 

Your friend is correct, a T stat is required to properly cool the engine, but you should run a lower setting, like a 170 degree. Flex fans, and shrouds contribute greatly to engine cooling. Most flex fans don't cool well, so when moving the air flows better and they cool better. A stock clutch fan works much better, and moves more air at idle.
The condenser for the AC will definitely restrict some air flow, and once it's working AC it will also cause more cooling issues with the heat it will add. Make sure you have the largest radiator that's made for the 2nd gen Camaros. If it's the 26" wide one, then it's the small radiator, and a 33" wide optional radiator is much better. The core support needs to be opened up for the 33", but it's marked out at the factory, so easy to do with a jigsaw, or nibbler.