yes i have a 69 camaro, question my father says i need to install a stall converter, don't know to much about cars asked what is it and he doesn't even know. can anybody tell me what a stall converter is, and what it does. i would appreciate that.

 

hey, im a new member too but i can help you're request. first all automatic cars have stall converters also known as torque converters. the reason being is that automatic cars obviously don't have a clutch pedal. so if you are in you're car and stopped in traffic you're engine has to be able to spin without being coneccted to the drive shaft other wise it would stall. as far as where it is. its a piece inside those magical workings of you're automatic trans. for pictures visit any parts website and look for torgue converters of stall converters. what one must do to put a new one in is unknown to me but im almost positive the tranmition must be disconnected. i hope i've been able to anwser you're question. for any others i might be able to help with feel free to write
-the mad hatta

 

A converter is a clutch in the auto trans world. Your stock converter will stall or make a direct drive with the mototr and the the tranny when the motor reaches around 1000 to 1800 RPMs , Stall converters range from 1800 for small camshaft applications all the way to 6000 stall for a transbrake and full out race cars with huge cams. You don't need a stall converter unless your car tries to edge forward when you have applied full break pressure or it won't idle right. IF you do need to swap out, reasearch and find out what size cam you have, let me know, and I can give you a rough guess on what size. Installing it isn't hard. Jack the car up, take out the drive shaft, undo the shifter linkage, undo the speedo cable and kickdown cable to the carb, there are six bolts holding the tranny to the motor take those out after you have supported the engine with another jack and taking the tranny loose from the crossmemeber, rent a tranny jack, lower the tranny out of the car with the jack, take out the old torque converter ( this would also be a good time to replace the front seal in the tranny), put the new one in, you should hear a clunk when you install the new one, you will have to spin it on the pump shaft to do so, the clunk lets you know it has mated with the pump, reverse the removal procedure, top off the tranny with fluid and your ready to go.[sm=exactly.gif]

 

You sound like you know what you're talking about. I hope you can help me.

I have two questions:

1. Do you know anything about the head casting number 14102193?

From everything I've read, this head comes with either a flat tappet with edge bolt valve covers or with a roller cam with
center bolt valve covers.

My dilemma is that I have flat tappets with center bolt valve covers!

I cannot find any info about this combination.

If you know anything about this, please let me know.

2. Do you know what rear end (differential) came originally on the 6 cylinder automatic 67 Camaro?

Thanks so much for your trouble,

Tee

 

stall converter is for racing that's what a stall is if you haven't put any performance parts in your engine. Cam, heads pistols forget about it

 

As stated, the torque convertor is a fluid coupling between the engine and transmission.
They are designed to slip, stock convertors at low rpm.
Stall rpm is where the t/conv will 'lock up'. You can test the stock convertor, of any manufacturer, by applying the foot brake and step on gas pedal and the rpm where the engine does not rev up anymore, is the stall rpm., typically, for a stock vehicle, is around 1200 rpm.
Modify the engine configuration, aka, add a bigger camshaft with smaller LSA, Lobe Separation Angle, and more duration, less vacuum is made, at low rpm, so idle rpm is adjusted higher to overcome stalling.
Thus a high stall t/conv is needed foregoing the engine stalling.
Let's say you modify the engine with a bigger camshaft, the engine characteristics have changed, since it will not idle under 1000 rpm, a looser, another term for higher stall, convertor is needed so the new idle, say around 1200 and above, as there is no load on the engine.
The camshaft manufacturer should give an idea of new idle rpm and adjustments made accordingly. A convertor stall is chosen matching the new characteristic.
Also, t/conv's multiply torque. The dyno sheet of the engine will show peak torque, this would be the figure used in determining the new looser convertor, as engine idle rpm will be higher.
If dyno sheet shows max torque at 3000 rpm, one would get a 2500 stall convertor as this action will be most effective in torque usage, the new convertor slips higher.
Also with a higher stall convertor, an extra external trans oil cooler will need to be added as well, the higher the slippage rpm, the more heat generated and heat destroys the clutches and friction discs of the transmission.
The suggested place of adding the extra cooler is after the radiator cooler as oil is cooled down to coolant temp.
The added cooler lines should be fitted to the radiator outlet to the added cooler and return to trans. The new cooler should go in front of the radiator getting the full air flow.
The oil being pumped from the trans, by GM design, is the bottom of the radiator cooler and return out the top tube.
This top tube should be the point of routing to the added cooler and the same flow direction, should be followed, fill cooler from the bottom up as this flow direction removes air from the cooler for the full cooling effect. It worked for GM and others, so continue with the new cooler.
One can never have too big of cooler.
Having a higher stall convertor for the street is not a problem, it will work the same as a stock convertor.