Restore Steps
#1
Restore Steps
Hey All....new to the forum and am impressed with all of the info i have been reading....
I do have a question though.
I am looking at getting a 78 or a 80 Z28 and was just wondering what would be the for sure things i would have to replace engine wise, or tran wise? I realize it depends on what shape the car is in but are there things like the carburetor that you KNOW you need to rebuild/replace?
Thanks!
I do have a question though.
I am looking at getting a 78 or a 80 Z28 and was just wondering what would be the for sure things i would have to replace engine wise, or tran wise? I realize it depends on what shape the car is in but are there things like the carburetor that you KNOW you need to rebuild/replace?
Thanks!
#3
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,465
First step to restoration is figuring out what you want. Like or better then new for show . A solid car car for daily driving. Does it need to be fast? is so fast How? all around street car fast in the 1/4 mile or race down the side of a mountain fast.
This will help you pick your car. Once you have the above info and the car infront of you it is time for deconsturtion then you will have a good idea what you would want.
Think about it this way. Let take your example of the carb. What if you buy a complete basket case but it has a 3 month old Demon carb on it. Depending on how you answered the first question you might be good in the carb area.
This will help you pick your car. Once you have the above info and the car infront of you it is time for deconsturtion then you will have a good idea what you would want.
Think about it this way. Let take your example of the carb. What if you buy a complete basket case but it has a 3 month old Demon carb on it. Depending on how you answered the first question you might be good in the carb area.
#4
Nothing is for sure. There are cars around that are so well maintained that you could just enjoy them. There are others that are so bad I don't know how the wheels don't fall off.
I'd agree with making a plan on what you want the car to be once it's done, and then choose a car based on where you're headed with it.
If it's going to be a pretty stock looking resto, then you really want a car that's very sound and worth saving. If the end car will be more race oriented, then floor pans will likely be changed or modified anyway, so a little rust is not an issue.
I'd agree with making a plan on what you want the car to be once it's done, and then choose a car based on where you're headed with it.
If it's going to be a pretty stock looking resto, then you really want a car that's very sound and worth saving. If the end car will be more race oriented, then floor pans will likely be changed or modified anyway, so a little rust is not an issue.
#5
I agree with everything so far, but want to add this. Be honest with yourself. Don't build a street strip car if you don't live near a strip. Also don't build on if you can't afford entry fees and the shear cost of racing. If you want a car that is just a blast to drive and burns the tires at will, yet you can cruise it and it won't over heat. Build it with an engine that makes torque, not the highest HP.
As for a plan, my first step would be safety. How are the fuel/brake lines? How are the ball joints and tie rods? Are the tires weather checked or have uneven wear? The rag joint in the steering column. The suspension, shocks and bushings. None of it sounds glamorous but that's how I did mine, in a round about way. I am confident that when I toss it in a corner the wheels not coming off.
As for a plan, my first step would be safety. How are the fuel/brake lines? How are the ball joints and tie rods? Are the tires weather checked or have uneven wear? The rag joint in the steering column. The suspension, shocks and bushings. None of it sounds glamorous but that's how I did mine, in a round about way. I am confident that when I toss it in a corner the wheels not coming off.
#6
One other thing; don't buy a car that's not complete body and interior. If the engine or trans is gone it's no big deal, but if it's missing a bunch of interior or exterior trim it will kill your budget finding all the little parts. Some of those parts are impossible to find for later 2nd gens too!
#7
Great info.....basically i want a car that will turn heads but not race. Just to crusie in and enjoy, burn the tires everyonce in a while.
I had a 79 when i was in high school which is why i am looking for one now...memorys! ha....
Im was thinking i needed to find one with a good engine and transmistion.
I had a 79 when i was in high school which is why i am looking for one now...memorys! ha....
Im was thinking i needed to find one with a good engine and transmistion.
#8
#10
The rag joint is the first thing off the steering box going toward the wheel. The joint will be hidden most likely by a plastic cover. Hard to get a look at really, not sure why I mentioned it.
The lines will be rusty, the real bad break lines will be moist. The rubber lines will be dry rotted.
Give her the old bounce on the nose trick, if it keeps bouncing when you stop. Worn shocks. Same for the rear. Jack the front up, wiggle the tire side to side. If it is sloppy, then the tie rod ends are bad. Wiggle it top to bottom, sloppy indicates worn ball joints. If her butt is saggy then the rear springs are worn (very common).
The lines will be rusty, the real bad break lines will be moist. The rubber lines will be dry rotted.
Give her the old bounce on the nose trick, if it keeps bouncing when you stop. Worn shocks. Same for the rear. Jack the front up, wiggle the tire side to side. If it is sloppy, then the tie rod ends are bad. Wiggle it top to bottom, sloppy indicates worn ball joints. If her butt is saggy then the rear springs are worn (very common).