rear end swap issues

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  #21  
Old 11-08-2010, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Cable might be frozen up inside the cable housing.
would i need to replace the cable or could I fix it?
 
  #22  
Old 11-08-2010, 07:43 PM
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i yanked on both ebrake cable ends and i didn't see any movement. Am I looking for the whole cable to move? I did notice that the star adjuster does move but its stiff. do you think that could be causing the ebrake to not work?
 

Last edited by jason7504; 11-08-2010 at 07:47 PM.
  #23  
Old 11-08-2010, 11:34 PM
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The star adjuster has nothing to do with the E brake. If you disconnect the E brake cables where they come together you can check the cable back to the pass. compartment pedal to see if it's free that direction. Then check the individual cables to each wheel to see if the cable moves freely when pulled.
If everything moves freely, then you may only need an E brake adjustment to make it properly hold.
 
  #24  
Old 11-09-2010, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
The star adjuster has nothing to do with the E brake. If you disconnect the E brake cables where they come together you can check the cable back to the pass. compartment pedal to see if it's free that direction. Then check the individual cables to each wheel to see if the cable moves freely when pulled.
If everything moves freely, then you may only need an E brake adjustment to make it properly hold.
yeah but i thought that brakes that aren't properly adjusted can also affect the ebrake. So i have to disconnect both ends of each cable to test it? for example, to test the cable that goes from the equalizer to each wheel, I would have to disconnect the cable at the equalizer and from the drum and pull on it? or just disconnect the cable from the end that's attached to the moving part like ebrake pedal or drum shoe to test it?
 
  #25  
Old 11-09-2010, 07:19 PM
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Yes, improperly adjusted brakes will affect the E brake's function, but the star adjuster has nothing to do with the E brake, it simply keeps the brakes adjusted. If the brakes are adjusted up you could grind all the ridges off the star and the E brake would work until they wore down enough to not brake properly.
Pull the cables anyway you like. One at a time, or both together. Just have the drums off so you can see if the shoes move while pulling them.
 
  #26  
Old 11-09-2010, 07:28 PM
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Default Rear end swap

Yes, I would leave the brake lines attached to the proportioning valve and just unbolt that from the rear and unscrew the left and right rear brake lines out of each wheel cylinder. The emergency brake lines will pop out of each side once the little metal tab is pushed in to release and then the new one will just snap right in (hook it to the brake shoe).
 
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Old 11-09-2010, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Krisco
Yes, I would leave the brake lines attached to the proportioning valve and just unbolt that from the rear and unscrew the left and right rear brake lines out of each wheel cylinder. The emergency brake lines will pop out of each side once the little metal tab is pushed in to release and then the new one will just snap right in (hook it to the brake shoe).
He just put the new rearend in, so I don't think he was planning on pulling the lines back off. And they don't connect to the proportioning valve anyway. That's located under the master cylinder.
 
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