New Guy, Need Some Opinions

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  #11  
Old 06-27-2011, 08:01 PM
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Again like i said i want to learn. So a stock rebuild or stock plus a few mods shouldn't be too bad. The body is in good enough condition i think to keep it running. I can get honing done for cheap and hopefully be able to get it running for cheap too. I guess im looking for references for rebuild kits and interior part places.
 
  #12  
Old 06-27-2011, 09:44 PM
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If the bore is rusty you wont get away with a simple hone and re-ring. Rust is always too deep to hone off and get a good ring seal. Your engine will need to be bored, so that will add to the cost, plus new pistons, whioch will add also. Then you'll need to get the mains aluign bored, the new pistons pressed on the rods and the rods sized.
A complete kit with new pistons for a 350 is pretty cheap at around $225, but the machine work will cost you around $600 or more. I still would encourage buying a good used motorm=and if you want to learn, just take your's apart and see how it's all put together, then buy new cam, lifters, intake, etc. to get the new motor up near the HP you want.
But if you're OK with spending some money, then plan on being in around $1,000-$1200 for a cheap rebuild, and a few hundred more for some performance changes.
 
  #13  
Old 06-27-2011, 10:15 PM
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Ok, so if i buy a running 350, which year is the best to get? Or doesnt it matter. Also, what mods to a running 350 will i need to do to get to 300 hp. What will cost be besides cost of motor. Thanks in advance
 
  #14  
Old 06-27-2011, 10:49 PM
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Wont have a choice to get the best ones, as they are the early ones around 69-70. But the 350's from trucks are a very good choice in most any year, as they usually have stronger 4 bolt main caps. Often you can buy a whole truck that rusted out, with a good engine, for less than just buying the engine, then drive it home and scrap out what you don't use.
To get it to 300 hp you'll want to install a performance cam and lifters, a new intake and carb, headers and a full dual exhaust system. That should get you there or close. If you can find a later truck with the Vortec 350 then you'll have the best heads and a very good odds of hitting 350 HP easily! But you'll need to be sure you buy an intake designed to fit the Vortec 350, not the regular pre 1986 350.
 
  #15  
Old 06-28-2011, 12:09 AM
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My turn. Welcome. Have you figured out how to look at pics? I haven't hear that one before. the frame rails are a little thicker than average sheet metal from say a fender. But yes if your good at forming the piece to replace you can do it no problem.

Your engine should get a bore. If you can score another running engine that do it and rebuild the one in there. I pretty much did that for the 5 years it took to collect parts for my 383. I went through 3 motors in my pickup while waiting to get the real one done. I sold it before the motor went in though.

If you don't hit 300hp with what ever you put in there something is wrong. Most stock heads are capable of supporting that. A performer RPM, 600 Holley, and a GOOD (not big cam) this one is right up your alley Cams, Chevrolet Small Block (1955 - 1998) - Lunati Power

The cam says its good with manifolds but headers are a must in my neighbor hood.
 
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Old 07-01-2011, 11:47 PM
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I recommend putting a timing chain and oil pump in any used motor you buy, just to help prolong the life of it. And while your at it, replace the rear main and the oil pan gasket. Also always check the pinch seams for rust because where two panels join together is tougher to fix than in the center.
 
  #17  
Old 07-02-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 92 RS in training
I recommend putting a timing chain and oil pump in any used motor you buy, just to help prolong the life of it. And while your at it, replace the rear main and the oil pan gasket. Also always check the pinch seams for rust because where two panels join together is tougher to fix than in the center.
The pan gasket sounds like good advice, but the rear main? You do know you'll have to drop the main bearing caps and crank to do a rear main seal don't you? I'd never disturb the rear main without replacing main and rod bearings, and if you're going that far you might as well do a whole rebuild.
 
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