I have a 75 Camaro had a 2 barrel carb & stock intake on it. I put on a weian intake and a holley 750 carb. I'm unsure where I need to hook up all the vacum lines. There is a little ball on the back with a line a metal hose with a line I hooked those up to a fitting that was on the stock intake. the distributor is hooked up to carb. a line at the back to vacum booster but there are to holes up front on the intake that I did not put anything in do I need these? The original intake as what appeared to be some kind of tempature sensor that went to the carb and on the other side I think went to the evap canistar but it hasn't been hooked up. Also is the driver side valve cover need to be hooked up to a vacum line? Alot of questions but kind of lost and want to get it running so thanks for the help.

 

Brake booster gets a line off the base of the carb in back. That should be full manifold vacuum. The distributor needs to have timed spark advance, so the metering block has a port on the left side of the front block, as you're looking at the carb facing the engine. The PVC valve needs to have a vacuum line too, and that should be plumbed into the intake manifold vacuum, so it doesn't pull through the carb and gunk it up. Your original PVC connection went through a canister, so if you eliminate that, you can just plumb it into the manifold or base of the carb.

 

Almost forgot! Welcome to the forum!

 

Thanks for the help. Let me just make sure I understand so your saying that the distributer vacum line will go to the front of the intake and not the carburator? The PVC connection will come straight from the valve cover into the intake? That would mean the only vacum line that I will be hooking up to the carb is the one for the vacum booster. Is that right? Thanks again I'm new to the whole resto thing and enjoy learning it feels intemidateing at times.

 

No, distributor goes to the metering block that's sandwiched between the front bowl and the main body of the carb. Look on the left side (as I mentioned before). It's on the middle of the metering block, left side. (fig. #10)
PVC valve goes to one of the vacuum lines on the base of the carb, (front, fig. #7) which are true vacuum, not metered. Same for the brake booster at the rear. (rear fig. #7) Plug all other open holes in carb or intake.
You do have the instructions for the carb don't you? If not, then go to Holley's site and download them. They have fig. that show what each fitting is, and what it's for.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...199R9934-3.pdf

 

Yeah I have the instructions but the only two lines they show where go are the fuel line and the brake booster. But now that you label them its so much easier so I guess I can figure it out thank you so much. Also the instructions have a warning about using a kickdown cable and transmission damage. Are they just making sure you hook it up to the carb? I got a Mr. Gasket universal plate with kickdown but I guess you have to buy the attatchment stud for the throttle lever seperate?

 

The warning is there to make sure you don't just hook up the kickdown cable without the proper adapter. If you've got the correct adapter to mount the kickdown cable so it works correctly, then there's no problem. It just needs to work as it did with the factory setup, and be adjustable to set it properly. Inproper adjustment will not allow it to work correctly, and can damage the tranny if left that way.

 

So with the tranny kickdown is there a ceratain procedure to do, or just make sure its tight? The instructions call for a holley part figured thats them just trying to sell there stuff. I bought a Mr. Gasket set from Advance that has an adjustable kickdown.

 

The Mr Gasket should be fine. The Holley is good also, and either will suffice. You don't want the kickdown to be tight, or it will restrict full throttle. You want to adjust the kickdown so that it's pulled close to all the way out at full throttle.
So mount your bracket and open the throttle fully by hand, then adjust your kickdown so it reaches at full throttle. Once you get the carb connected and setup, then drive it. If it kicks down too early, or holds in too long, move the end of the cable housing towards the carb to allow less tension on the cable. The shorter the distance from bracket to the carb attachment point, the later it will kickdown. Pulling the cable out farther makes it kickdown sooner and stay in longer. If it's pulled out too far it wont upshift out of passing mode.