my new brakes suck

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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #11  
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I dont know what kind of master cyl they used but I have seen new ones not work correctly but if I had to bet I would say the advice you are getting here is spot on. There is air trapped some place in the system and your mechanic is a hack that doesnt want to find it.Fix it before you drive it so you dont hurt yourself or worse some innocent family.
 
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by steved
I dont know what kind of master cyl they used but I have seen new ones not work correctly but if I had to bet I would say the advice you are getting here is spot on. There is air trapped some place in the system and your mechanic is a hack that doesnt want to find it.Fix it before you drive it so you dont hurt yourself or worse some innocent family.
thanks for the info guy's i took the car again for the 3rd time, and now they said that the calipers are bad, and they want 200 for labor plus parts.wow now i'm ****. i told them if they new that there were bad why not replace them there, instead of me keep taking the car back. i was like what a way of taking my money. in this is a hot rod shop that restores cars.
 
Old Feb 9, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #13  
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lol same the breaks on my 79 will freakin slide before i lose breaking power. there harder than my 4 disk breaks on the 98 but thats cause it has ABS so its controlled but i can get it to slide easily on gravel but i never slam on them on street. but the feel like they need bled some more.

dude take the master off bench bleed the thing and go from there re bleed the system and youll be set
 
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 05:23 PM
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If you're not able to do the work, I'd take it to another shop and have it checked. Once they determine the cause of the problem I'd have them write an estimate and take that to the shop that screwed it up and show them. Then let them know you're turning it over to small claims court if they wont make it right for free.
You might also want to talk to your better business bureau, and file a complaint if they wont make it right.
Somebody has to put the skids on people who rip car owners off.
 
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #15  
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I cant remember what car you are working on but most calipers are cheap and easy to install.I would spend the hour to change them before I would give them hacks another penny of my money.They lied to you and put you in harms way you should not reward them with more of your hard earned cash.
 
Old Feb 10, 2010 | 09:54 PM
  #16  
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wow, sounds pretty similar to my case. I replaced most of my system with some cheap autozone parts ($16 master, $11 caliper, 2 $8 wheel cylinders) just as temporary fixes until I eventually redo the whole thing. But when I went to bleed it, it took hours and the brakes were still bad. We replaced some lines as well untill I found out about bench bleeding (actually, I found out before I bought the new Master) but even after that, the brakes were still like half there. now, similar to edog2's problem, the pedal goes halfway down and sounds like escaping air before the brakes catch. Could it possibly be the booster?

Sorry to use your post to answer a question, but it reminded my of my really similar sounding problem and i thought i'd try to gain some knowledge.
 
Old Feb 11, 2010 | 08:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 79 Berlinetta
wow, sounds pretty similar to my case. I replaced most of my system with some cheap autozone parts ($16 master, $11 caliper, 2 $8 wheel cylinders) just as temporary fixes until I eventually redo the whole thing. But when I went to bleed it, it took hours and the brakes were still bad. We replaced some lines as well untill I found out about bench bleeding (actually, I found out before I bought the new Master) but even after that, the brakes were still like half there. now, similar to edog2's problem, the pedal goes halfway down and sounds like escaping air before the brakes catch. Could it possibly be the booster?

Sorry to use your post to answer a question, but it reminded my of my really similar sounding problem and i thought i'd try to gain some knowledge.
It's all air in the lines! You need to bleed the master again and make sure there's no air in it. Sounds like you're running on half the master. You can pull the lines off the master and do the bench bleed, then do all the wheels in the order I mentioned before. This is VERY important, as if you don't do it in the correct order it will never get the air out!
 
Old Feb 11, 2010 | 08:48 PM
  #18  
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well thanks for the info. so i had time today to work on the camaro. so i bled the master and guess what there was air. so i fix that. then i whent to the back and bled the whole system. know i'm **** cause i pay this shop $600 to do all the work and i'm doing it my self know. i decide to check the wheel cylinders they replace. those *** ho.. only replace the boots from the one that did not blead since the 1st time. this *** ho.. charge me $110 for parts and labor for both wheels and still did a crapy job. and no new parts.

one thing guys when i was bleading the brakes the pedal got hard and stood up or high, but then when i started the car the pedal when all the way down. but it brakes better the before. what else show i do. also when i blead the back wheel the fluid came out pink at the at first.
 
Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #19  
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The pedal will go farther down when the engine is running on a power brake system, as the booster gives your foot an assist. If it's good hard brakes at about 1/2 way down, then you're good to go.
 
Old Feb 11, 2010 | 09:26 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
The pedal will go farther down when the engine is running on a power brake system, as the booster gives your foot an assist. If it's good hard brakes at about 1/2 way down, then you're good to go.
is still very low but it brakes alot better my friend suggested to hold the brake all the way put the car in 1st and hit the gas. the car did a burn out but it stood there. and did not move is that good.
 



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