It Lives...Here Starts the Project

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  #11  
Old 03-27-2010, 10:45 PM
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Good to see you got it running,thats a big hurdle that you've cleared now,so now you get to start on all the other fun stuff involved with these cars haha.Sounds like a good idea using the bed liner on the interior,there are several people on another forum that have used the bed liner for their trunk floor,but your the first i've heard about using it in the interior.If you will be replacing your leaf springs,i hope yours goes easier than mine has,biggest pain in the butt i have ran into on my car so far haha.
 
  #12  
Old 03-28-2010, 08:46 AM
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What kind of problems did you encounter with your leaf springs? I've changed them out on other cars before, and didn't have any major issues that I recall...but that was a long time ago.
But yes, I will be changing out all the springs on the car, I ordered 2" lowering springs all the way around along with a bushing kit for the whole car. Pretty much every piece of rubber on the thing is shot, so I figured if I was going to be under it any way, I'd just replace the springs and shocks while everything is in pieces.
 
  #13  
Old 03-28-2010, 10:46 AM
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What problems did'nt i have haha.I soaked all the bolts with pb blaster for 2 weeks before i started,but 30 year old bolts that have been through ohio winters(major salt on the roads) for 28 years of that time,do not want to cooperate,out of the 3 bolts on the front bracket 2 broke off on the pass. side,1 on drivers side,broke an upper shock bolt,then i had to cut the nut off the shackle bolt,and beat the bolt out on that.One thing i can suggest that i did not do but should have is to drop the gas tank,if i did that it would'nt have been quite as hard to get to the shackle bolts,but yeah it was all original springs,bolts,nuts,and they did not like being messed with haha.
 
  #14  
Old 03-28-2010, 06:39 PM
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Fortunately for me, this car spent the majority of its life in Georgia. So, not much salt/deicer/whatever it is they put on the roads up north. I lived in Mt for 5 yrs, and know all about that.
This poor car was just neglected for most of the last 10 yrs. I don't want to jinx myself (or the car), but so far, It's been pretty easy to take apart. The majority of the rust is in/on the body, and in my opinion due to poor owner care of the last 1 or 2 owners. Now, I'm just venting...
I've already started shooting all the bolts I can get to with Sea Foam Creep, I'm hoping when I put the impact gun on them to remove I don't start taking them out in pieces. Suspension, brakes and bushings are going to happen this week.
Then I'm gonna drive the heck out of that poor, homely, interiorless camaro until the rest of my parts come in.haha
 
  #15  
Old 03-31-2010, 01:45 PM
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Does anyone have an idea how to remove a rear brake drum that has attached itself to the brake pads? I've tried a pry bar, beat on it with a hammer, and am pretty much out of options.
My current plan is to put the new spark plugs in it, fire it up, drop it in gear...if it'll go, and stomp on the gas pedal.
There's gotta be a better way, so if somebody has one please enlighten me. either way the pics ought to be interesting (either something broken, or a burnout rightin my driveway. haha (wife'll love that)
 
  #16  
Old 03-31-2010, 08:40 PM
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Can someone tell me what engine my heads are off? I've been to MORTEC.com, and chevy.com, and a couple others I googled.
The casting numbers on my heads are 3998988. The numbers I find are all the numbers around that one...but not thaat number. I can't freakin find it.
I compression tested it today, and all 8 cylinders were above 150, I've got a nasty feeling this is because I have 305 heads

Thoughts????comments???
 
  #17  
Old 03-31-2010, 09:17 PM
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Can you make out the casting dates?
 
  #18  
Old 03-31-2010, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rosky69
Does anyone have an idea how to remove a rear brake drum that has attached itself to the brake pads? I've tried a pry bar, beat on it with a hammer, and am pretty much out of options.
My current plan is to put the new spark plugs in it, fire it up, drop it in gear...if it'll go, and stomp on the gas pedal.
There's gotta be a better way, so if somebody has one please enlighten me. either way the pics ought to be interesting (either something broken, or a burnout rightin my driveway. haha (wife'll love that)
First thing you want to do is back off the adjusters through the inspection hole. Then once they are backed all the way off you can rock the car forward and back until they pop free. Then the drum should come right off.
Be sure the parking brake is off, and the cable isn't stuck in the on position too!
 
  #19  
Old 03-31-2010, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rosky69
Can someone tell me what engine my heads are off? I've been to MORTEC.com, and chevy.com, and a couple others I googled.
The casting numbers on my heads are 3998988. The numbers I find are all the numbers around that one...but not thaat number. I can't freakin find it.
I compression tested it today, and all 8 cylinders were above 150, I've got a nasty feeling this is because I have 305 heads
Thoughts????comments???
Non-existent casting number, take a closer look. And what do 305 heads have to do with your compression test results? That test shows how tight everything is (rings & valve guides) by how much pressure the combustion chamber can build. You're not testing the compression ratio, which is the thing that smaller chamber heads have an effect on.
 
  #20  
Old 04-01-2010, 12:27 PM
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I cant get the adjuster to adjust (go figure), the plate that holds the springs in place is in the way and I can't get the lever that holds that little wheel to move...not enough room. I hit it (the brake drum) once or twice more with a hammer, and got it to move some. The really strange part is that it's stuck where there is no brake pad. I'm going to try to break it loose with a 6' steel rod and hammer from the drivers side. I'm already going to have to replace the brakes anyway, so.....
On another note, I got a line on a set of 1990 vortec (supposedly) heads for $100, will my stock intake bolt up to that, or do I need to change that too? I'm going to look at the casting numbers again and make sure i get the right number to confirm their origin, but if they do turn out to be 305 heads (as I fear), the heads off a '90 350 sound like a pretty affordable option to me.
Thanks for all of your advice.
Camaro69, I don't knnow what the heck I was thinking. I know better than that, but it sure didn't occur to me yesterday evening.
 


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