Help Purchasing a 78 Z28
#2
Then I would not count the engine as part of the deal. It is a core.
So, is the car missing everything that it looks like it is missing? How is the interior? How are the floors, frame rails, etc? If it is rotten, don't buy it. If it is saveable then offer him $500 tops. If it is solid and has glass, and tail lights and whatever else is missing, it is probably worth $1000.
So, is the car missing everything that it looks like it is missing? How is the interior? How are the floors, frame rails, etc? If it is rotten, don't buy it. If it is saveable then offer him $500 tops. If it is solid and has glass, and tail lights and whatever else is missing, it is probably worth $1000.
#3
If you get a couple big boxes of parts maybe. Can you get pics of the bottom of the car. Get pics of the A pillar, specificly the lower section where the fender and winshield meet. Look at the dash in this area for rust right in the area where the defroster vents are. Look at the lower corners of the doors and the the matching area on the car. The lower areas where the rear window and the filler panel meet. The normal wheel wells and lower trunk sections, get under there and check where the trunk and the quarter meet, this is a common spot on Camaros. While your down there take a look at EVERY inch of the rear frame sections. Check the leaf spring pockets too. The floor pans are next work your way forward check the rockers in front of the rear wheel inside and out. Take a peak at thr trans tunnel just for the hell of it, you don't want anything showing up after you get it home. Is the suspention complete or is it missing sway bars and such. How is the rear end. Does it leak. Is it a posi, don't take his work for it. Is the tranny covered in oil? You mentioned the motor doesn't roll over. Is it locked up or hve a dead battery or bad starter. Personally I could handle a bad motor if the body checks out. If you can go over there and look at these areas if you have questions take some pics and post here we'll take a look. I'm sure someone else has more to add to the list. Oh yeah, I see its in primer so bring a small magnet to go over the wheel wells and rocker areas. If it don't stick bondo city. Its up to you if you want a bondo buggy or not. But at least you know what you got. Good luck. If it doesn't look or feel right don't do it. I've bought more than one car on impulse without really looking at it. An 83 iroc comes to mind, I had to scrap it because the cancer in the floor was all the way into the bracing.
#4
If it's always been a New Mexico car that's a plus, as SW cars are usually pretty rust free. I doubt if you can see any cancer at the lower winshield corners with the windshield in, as the dark strip at the bottom covers most of the area affected.
The rest the areas are easy to check, and if they are good it's still a bit high with a bad motor.
Welcome to Camaro Forums!
The rest the areas are easy to check, and if they are good it's still a bit high with a bad motor.
Welcome to Camaro Forums!
#7
Even a West Coast car can have a little there! When I pulled my windshield I had just signs of pitting in those corners. Nothing worth cutting out. I just treated it with rust inhibitor, and then painted it with POR.
#8
The new car I got has a deteriorated windshield seal, I've read this is why they began to leak in the first place. the crappy thing is it has been inside since the early 80's. No rust what so ever but it will get a professional reseal before it goes outside.
#10
That car would sell easy here for $750 the way it sits looks like it needs a good bit of work but that's why we call them a project that's half the fun of owning a older car the building of it. Means more when you can say i did that lol