Sweet I thought the bolts might be welded on with the old stock one's but thats great news! I'm just guessing that it's best to replace them all at once? I plan too on both sides if thats recommended and I'll be getting all new lug nuts.
few noob questions though, "Make sure they're lined up nywhere other than directly above the wheel cylinder" Okay so lined up with what, and wheel cylinder? do you mean the axle housing shaft?
as for greasing the face of the axle that is the side facing the wheel? and my lug nuts can't go on backwards are those kind alright?
And finally what do I ask for at the parts store to get the lugnut bolts I need?
Sorry for the ton of questions I'm trying to figure everything out so I don't screw it up so the same thing doesn't happens again.

 

Just need to be situated anywhere that the stud wont hit the wheel cylinder when it comes out. You'll notice when you get the drum off that there's plenty of space behind the axle hub, except at the top where the wheel cyl. are.
The grease goes around the hole that the stud is in so it wont bind on the lug nut when you use it to pull the new stud in. If you use a lug nut that has the tapered edge to center in a wheel it wont work well. Get a lug nut off something else and flip it so the flat top side is towards the axle. Then with grease on both sides of a washer it will let the washer turn while you tighten the lug nut and pull the axle stud in.
Just pull one out and take it with you. Tell them what car it's for and they can set you up with the correct length and thread size. Most are 7/16-20 on Chevy, but at some point they went to metric, so take a lug nut along to ensure it fits what they give you.
I'd always do all 5 at once, but don't need to do the other side, unless it's messed up too.

 

Just had a thought....this is the rear axle isn't it? If it's the front then it's a bit different, since the hubs can be removed to pull the studs.

 

Yup it's a rear axle, I've been on summit so now I've got an idea for what I need when I go to the parts store for wheel studs and lug nuts. Whats your guys take on wheel locks?
And as for doing both sides, the driver side is what happened today but the passenger side has a broken stud, and so does the front passenger side been that way since I got it. Are the front just as easy?

 

If you have custom wheels locks are a good idea. But if you don't think there's ever a chance yours will ever get stolen, nahh. They don't hold the wheel on any better if thats what you were thinking. I have a question for you. Did you use an impact wrench for the wheels? If so I ALWAYS check mine after with a lug wrench. Honestly then should be torqued, but IDK the specs nor do I ever torque mine.

 

Nah I never impact mine I'm not a fan of air tools. I use a 1/2 inch breaker and socket, thats why I was like how did they come off?!?
The reason why I was thinking about the wheel locks was if people are messing with my cars and loosening the nuts it might be nice. don't they make stuff to put on the threads so this doesn't happen? locktight or something?

 

I've never used loc tite on lugs but yeah. Even permanent will come off with a propane torch.

 

Yeah I wouldn't use permanent just thought some might be a good idea though but Idk I'll just see what I find at the parts store.

 

I've done mine like Damon; just tighten them down with a star wrench. I NEVER use those cheap wrenches that come with the car. I even keep a star wrench in the trunk of my cars.
The fronts are easier. Same way, but you pull the rotor off and do them inside where it warm and dry on a bench. Or you could even take them somewhere and have them pressed in, but I think that's a waste of money.
If you've got others that are broken you better replace those too. No reason to replace any that aren't buggered or broken.

 

well I'm probably gonna do them all inside the garage but it won't be warm lol.
how does the rotor come off?
Star wrench? This thing?