The stretching makes sense, thanks damon.

And my mom's done seat covers, carpeting, head liner, and interior panels for a scout traveler with her machines (got like 3 or 4) before so it should be good for it.

 

Well just talked to my mom about it, her singer bit the dust like a month ago I guess.
She said she's supposed to be getting a new one next time she's in billings, that could be this weekend or next month so idk when I'll get to the seats but I'm sure it won't be long and it'll just give me more time to research how I want to do them.

But in the mean time lets talk engines!!! lol this is just for me to try to understand and help me in deciding for the next project since I'm in the lacking and you guy's are in the knowing.

my first question is big block vs small block, = displacement vs RPM's?
I'm just wondering what the main differences are, and if my way of thinking about them is basically right or wrong.

Am I right in thinking that the smaller the engine displacement the higher it's going to have to rev to reach it's power band where as a BB reaches it's power earlier on in RPM's because it's higher displacement?

BB's have thicker cylinder walls right?

BB's start at a 4inch bore?

 

Been awhile since I took a pic of the car so today I did,

here's what I started with, alot of people thought the "custom faded paint job" was actually custom.


And here's the almost finished product, I got rid of the side trim, erased most of the panel lines and tried to smooth things up still needs more though.


I took a vid the other day when I had it running too, click to play.

 

Don't sound bad.

 

Thanks I like the sound, alot crunchier then the old motor.

 

BBC vs. SBC depends on bore and stroke as to when they make power. A SBC can make power down low if it's a long stroke. In general the more torque an engine builds down low, the sooner it developes HP that you feel off idle. Since a BBC builds good low end torque, it feels like it's got more HP off idle, while a SBC feels it a bit later usually as it reaches peak torque.
I think the 4" bore thing isn't necessarily what differetiates a big block from a small block, as many people have built some pretty high winding engines with over 4" bores and short strokes. It's more a physical size of the external engines. Seems to be a number of over 400 cubic inch small blocks around today, so the large c.i. small block is not as rare anymore.
As for cylinder walls, there's not much difference. Most engines have a similar wall thickness to allow for proper cooling, and the differences are pretty minor. Occasionally a engine is built where the cores shift during casting and it can't be safely bored as far as normal, but that's not the norm.

 

My deciding factor is always my intended use. Straight line all out acceleration, bb would be nice. Gonna turn corners, then sb no doubt. The 434-454 sb make enough power to overcome the torque deficit. Old school bb and sb are about the same cost to build now days. LS is where its at. They make stupid power.

 

Cool, thanks for the imfo guys. An LS would be cool but idk if I could afford one, the electronics would probably drive me insane and I guess if I carburatored it I'd kinda just be throwing away power.

 

Well I drove it today, runs great! love the engine, all the gears work, speedo works, drove great to up till the wheel falling off.

Idk if I didn't get the nuts tight enough, not likely since I've broken more bolts then had stuff just fall off, and this isn't the first time. It's happened before to my scout so either I'm not getting stuff tight enough or people are messing with my chit, so from now on I'm gonna have my dad go over the lug nuts after I'm done to see if he agrees i'm getting them tight enough.

But its back to working on the car again it looks like. I'm not sure what happened first, a lug nut bolt breaking or that happening from the tire rolling off them but now I have a broken lug nut bolt, a bent one, and 3 that are okay/bad idk from the wheel rolling on them.
So can the bolts on the axle be replaced? or are they forged into the axle?

 

They can be replaced and it's cheap, and easy! They just pop ouit of the axle with a good shot with a hammer. Pull the drums and get a good 4 lb. hammer, then give them a shot on the end to drive them out. Make sure they're lined up nywhere other than directly above the wheel cylinder when you hit them! You can leave the trans in neutral and spin the axle to get each lined up.
Once you've got them all out then push the new ones in from the back and put a glob of grease on the face of the axle, put a washer on, then a lug nut (on backwards), tighten them slowly until they pull themselves in. Repeat for each one, then clean up the grease and install the brake drum. DON'T step on the brakes while the drum is of!
Install thw wheels when done and you're good to go.