Mic'ing the cranck just means usind a micrometer to measure the journal diameter, there is a specification and it can be + or - a few tenths of a thousandth. Something like 2.3507'-2.3500" (these a random numbers).

Turning is when it the crank is spun while a sandpaper belt (usually) is placed on the journal removing material. Fun to look at.

Resizing the rods is done to the large end of the rod. What happens is the rod is what turns rotating motion into reciprocation motion. The crank is constantly pushing on the upper side and pulling on the lower side, eventually the big hole is going to go out of round. Sometimes the small one too. So what machinists do is remove material from the cap where the bolt holes are and bolt the rod back together and hone it perfectly round again. If they didn't do the cap first the big hole would be out of spec. like the crank.

The main and rod journals can be machined independent of each other. This is done in 0.010" increments. So when you hear someone say the crank has been cut 10/10, there saying .010" from the main journals and .010" from the rod journals. Can you guess what 10/20 is? or 20/10? The machine shop will sell the matching bearing with the machine work just to avoid confusion, which is what worried me about someone putting the wrong ones in there. Unless it was a chamfered race bearing but that is another story.

ALL 400's have a steam hole. The factory put them there. If there not there its not a 400. The head gaskets will have the same hole. Its between the middle cylinders and can't be seen unless the head is off.

A funny story. A guy I know, real *******, built a 434 for his car and a 383 for his girlfriend. More money than brains. He buil them at the same time and then carted them to the dyno. Well on the dyno the 400 puked the head gaskets, both. He had the wrong ones in there and a very POed dyno operator.

The end lol.

 

No prob, yeah they would be factory heads. I was told by a machinist that they could be shaved to spec, like whatever c/r i wanted? but i was also told that the heads were crack prone but who knows, i dont see why they would be. But yeah, prob better off finding another set, thats the route i'm gonna go.

Joe

 

Thanks for the help guys.
Well I've got 2 engine to rebuild, but they won't be rebuilt at the same time! lol.
And in the future I'll definitely be getting better heads for it, but for right now if I can use em I am.

 

Good call.

 

Hey guys so lets say a rod was thrown. That would be refering to a piston connecting rod right? well if that was the case wouldn't all the pushrods and lifters still be in place? Well I pulled my intake and valve covers so they wouldn't get stolen and I wanted to see the top end, the left head was missing its second from the front pushrod and lifter and I couldn't see it or feel it in its hole. So is that normal or is that furthering my idea of somehow a lifter was spit through my oil pan?

 

Hey, i would use my heads to but they need to be redone or else i would use them, mine are the 2.02/1.6. which ever costs less, ill go with for now just a step closer to getting it running lol.

But in most cases "throwing a rod" is when the piston rod brakes/disconnects from the crank, loose from the bearing, wrist pin etc. In worst case senario the rod could damage the block and score your walls. As for the lifter and push rod? sounds like the motor was ran without oil, maybe it was burning the oil?

 

Oil was good checked it that morning, and even had 15 psi on the oil pressure gauge. But idk lol maybe the pump really wasn't working.

But how close you getting to having yours on the road?

 

You can't see a lifter with just the valve cover off. Pushrod, valve spring, valve stem and rocker arm. My guess. You dropped a valve. Maybe due to a broken sprin or some type of other rocker issue.. Pics, pics and more pics. Most of us here can diagnose a 5 gallon bucket of what used to be the inside of your engine.

I won't say a lifter shooting out the pan is impossible. But it would somehow have to get past the cam. The last one I puked had chunks of valve that went #6 up the intake back down into #7 cylinder. Had piston ring stuck between the valve and seat on #4.

Pull the heads off. Your intake too. It will get crusty if it sits out under the hood all winter. Pull the cam and timing set. Keep track of all the bolts and where they go. Never know when you'll need a bolt from here or there. The best way to learn how to put one together is to tear one apart.

 

You can't see a lifter with just the valve cover off. Pushrod, valve spring, valve stem and rocker arm. My guess. You dropped a valve. Maybe due to a broken sprin or some type of other rocker issue.. Pics, pics and more pics. Most of us here can diagnose a 5 gallon bucket of what used to be the inside of your engine.

I won't say a lifter shooting out the pan is impossible. But it would somehow have to get past the cam. The last one I puked had chunks of valve that went #6 up the intake back down into #7 cylinder. Had piston ring stuck between the valve and seat on #4.

Pull the heads off. Your intake too. It will get crusty if it sits out under the hood all winter. Pull the cam and timing set. Keep track of all the bolts and where they go. Never know when you'll need a bolt from here or there. The best way to learn how to put one together is to tear one apart.

 

I already took the intake off (stated above) thats how I could see the pushrod and lifter missing. I didn't have time to pull the heads today had to get to my girls birthday party, but I've got tomorrow and saturday to mess with that and I'll post the pics I took in the morning. idk when I'll get it pulled, might just use the hand crank hoist I have, worked okay unloading the 400. But I still need to get an engine stand and I'm gonna make a wooden roller stand for the 400 tomorrow for easy moving.