sweet thanks man

 

Okay got the oil pressure gauge in yesterday, started it today to time it I waited in the cab a bit to check the oil pressure.

I didn't have the fitting on the back of the gauge tight enough cause it had a drip, so I shut it off then tightened it and restarted it the leak stopped but it stayed at 25 for pressure I thought it was kinda low but thought it might need to build up or something so I went ahead and attempted to time it at 6* btdc it still had a nock or ping so I moved it around it sounds best about idk 12*-18* atdc so maybe it does have a non stock cam but I don't really know I just know it sounds best there and the nock/ping is least heard there so about as satisfied as I could be with what I could do I checked the oil pressure and it's 0.

I've checked the fittings there's no oil dripping from the gauge and I cant see a leak where it mounts to the block. So I don't know, my dad wanted me to get the oil pressure gauge cause he thought the nock or ping could be from no oil cause he said that the oil pump arm that links to the distributor can get pushed down sometimes from putting in the distributor wrong and then not pump oil.
What do you guys think? this car just keeps making no sense to me everytime I finally think I get it figured out and possibly fixed. Could I have possibly over tightened the fitting to the back of the gauge and crushed the copper tube? I tried not to over tighten anything since I over tightened one before and stripped it luckily I had 2 sets of fittings + nipples since I got the gauge and copper tubing since it came with plastic.

 

I doubt the fitting or gauge is the problem; it could just be a tired engine. Too much clearance on the bearings will cause the pressure to be low, and the 25 lbs. at idle isn't bad, but 0 sure is! Not unusual for any engine to have less pressure once it warms up, but starting at 25 and dropping to 0 tells me the bearings are gone, or the pump is bad.
I don't think there's any way possible for the shaft on the oil pump to be pushed down out of contact with the pump by installing the distributor wrong. You'd just never get the distributor in as the crosspin would hold it up and not allow engagement, or the dist. to seat. It's a solid steel shaft and not one you could crush or compress easily.

 

I agree, on the oil pressure and the dizzy install thing. I think 10-120is way too much retard but you won't know unless you drive it. Sucks on the knock for sure. Is it your only ride?

 

okay so how can I check some things such as the oil pump?
Whats the best way to check that it's working other then the pressure gauge?

Which bearings are we talking about?

So it's not possible for the new line I put in from block to gauge to have gotten plugged?

If the pump is bad then just dropping the pan and replacing the pump isn't possible right? to drop the pan I need to pull the engine right?

Tomorrow or friday I'll run some tests. First I'll check the tubing and blow it out to make sure it isn't plugged, then I'll start it and see if it's around 25 pressure on start up then watch to see if and when it drops to 0 again just to confirm things.

And this is probably a really stupid question but if I drive it with no oil pressure what will be the consequences on the engine? I'm presuming that low pressure will result in a lack of rising the oil out of the pan thus resulting in lack of lubricating the engine basically running it dry and making a rebuild all the more needed.

 

well it's my only ride, but not the only car at my disposal I'll be using the usual expedition for winter but I've just been wanting to get it around for driving full time.
As for the retard a more agressive cam would advance the timing right? so more atdc would be required? It sounds best feels right where I have it, and as for smoking out the pipes it depends on how I have the timing set and it doesn't smoke where I have it so I'm presuming I've got it about right.

 

Ahh young lad. I wouldn't waste money on the oil pump, nor would I think it would cure the knock. Also the gauge is probably dead on or close. Lets just say I have had some well beat engines in my truck. On a warm day at a stop light I would see 0. I'm not saying its a good thing or that its even OK. Just that its normal for a high mileage small block.

With that said, your confusing pressure with flow or volume. What ever way you want to say it. High pressure doesnt mean high volume and vise versa.

Vall was talking about the rod and/or main bearings. The bearing wears causing a greater clearance between it and the bearing journal. As the gap grows, there is less of a restriction for the oil to pass. The greater the restriction the greater the pressure. So with the bearing wearing the oil still flows.

 

alright so no pressure doesn't mean that I have no oil flowing to my engine so it's safe to drive it? I do plan on a rebuild, just not right now with the lack of a job Im getting my school handled pretty well so I'll have one If I can find the right part timer in the near future then with the bank flowing once again I will be able to fund it probably this spring.
And as for that nock/ping whatever, possibilities oh the possibilities any ways to solve it? and how does one check the cam for originality? do stock cams have anything stamped on the ends?

 

As far as I know stock cams don,t have any markings. If there is a single row timing chain on it there is a good probability its stock. Double row chains are a very popular upgrade done when swapping cams. This doesn't me the cam has been swapped though. It may just had the chain replaced for some reason.

The knock/ low pressure deal, well its hard to say. There is oil flowing. I can't hear it run so its a judgment call. If its ticking, I'd drive it. If it sounds like its hammering then id still drive it, but be prepared for a tow truck ride at some point. I wouldn't rod on it either way. Small block Chevy are VERY tough engines and can run in poor condition for years. The one I pulled from my truck had a main knock for about 2yrs.

Is there a autoshop class at your school.If so I would drive in and ask the teacher to look at it after school. If anything just to have a knowledgeable ear listen to it run and tell you what is knocking. I'm thinking its a lifter tick, just because it didn't knock before you tore it down. I wish I could see and hear it for you, maybe a video?

You don't know anyone that works on cars that can help you? An uncle or a friends dad. I started out about the same way you are except i had a four speed that would get stuck between gears. Then I did the intake and carb and had to get help from a friend of a friend to get it running.

 

I'm home schooled so no classes such as that lol.

My youth pastor used to have a ford fairlane with a 289 which was about a 327 after he was done, I've been wanting to have him listen to it but I haven't taken it to church since the change of stuff cause I didn't want to ruin my engine, but I'll start driving it if it'll work good.

I'm about to go make some test runs to decide where to keep the timing for the best running. But what do you think about that max rpm I've been dealing with? idk if it's still doing that or not I haven't got out there and drove it yet, but if it does do it after testing and messing around with the timming for how it runs best what do you think?
I've been thinking about the vacuume, and mechanical, total advance and that stuff. So before the swap it had no problem at all getting to 5 grand and I'm sure I could have buried the needle if I tried but that was with the old carb and stuff and I've been thinking with the new stuff it was cutting out about 3000 to 4000 with the pedal down so that would be wide open throttle correct? where there is no vacuum to run the vac advance but I was thinking of how if I eased into the throttle and let it slowly rise it was normal would that mean that since the throttle wasn't full I was still getting vacuum to advance the curve and raise the rpm? could it be possible that I need full vacuum to my distributor? idk how the old carb was set up I didn't pay attention since I figured I wouldn't have any problems hooking up my new stuff the way the instructions said, ah hindsight lessons of how things could have been better done on my part, oh well the past is gone and right now is here and I've got a car to fix.

Thank you all for your insight, support, and constant help it has been greatly appreciated.