getting on the road
#123
10-12-2010, 02:52 PM
Alright, I remembered how to post more then one picture at a time yay I feel so smart, damn computer how I loathe thee.
Okay so yeah they weren't black before the intake, carb switch, and as for the few that are a lil oily I believe thats due to bad piston rings as my motor does need an overhaul. Now back to the fun I'll go find tdc on #1 and see if the rotor is pointed in that general direction.
Okay so yeah they weren't black before the intake, carb switch, and as for the few that are a lil oily I believe thats due to bad piston rings as my motor does need an overhaul. Now back to the fun I'll go find tdc on #1 and see if the rotor is pointed in that general direction.
#124
10-12-2010, 02:56 PM
here's a pic of what i'm talking about with the carb tunning mixture screws 
and here's how I have the dizzy positioned #1 is the 2nd one to the left of the fuse box on the side
and here's how I have the dizzy positioned #1 is the 2nd one to the left of the fuse box on the side
#125
10-12-2010, 05:06 PM
Okay, so in the above picture you can see how I have the distributor placed, #1 and #8 are relatively parrallel to the front of the engine.
Well originally it was turned maybe one firing number clockwise and the #1 wire spot was in the now #7 position (would be first to the right of the fuse box in the above picture) then I moved stuff around messing around one day and got it to the current spot of 2nd to the left of the fuse box in the above picture it ran better that way note this is how it was prior to the intake, carb, and distributor replacement and timming.
Well I think I about half solved the problem, today I decided to try the original position of the distributor so I turned it where it was before, thankfully my mark was left behind after removing the tape I had marked it with, now it doesn't smoke out the back pipes at all sitting there idling.
I took it for a drive and it runs alot better but its still not there yet I get to about 4 grand to 4500rpm and it doesn't sputter anymore it just dosn't increase very fast it sounds like its getting to max rpm but I know thats not max it used to go way above that but I'm not brave enough to sit there with the pedal down to see if it'll slowly rise cause I don't want to blow the engine.
Oh I forgot to mention the way it is now with the distributor position the way it was when I got it and had it running good before the new stuff, it's about idk maybe 12 degrees after TDC according to my balancer.
But idk guys I have no clue after all, all I know is it runs alot better like this but its still not great so I guess I'm pretty much gonna be tackling this thing by ear, how it feels, and runs.
when I had it to the floor it did smoke some out the back pipes idk if it's coolant or not, but it did die one time but not like it used to and when it dies the oil light comes on I think from the ignition being on same with the seatbelts light but after the drive at home when it was idling about maybe 800rpm the oil light was on it would dim in and out but not completely go off unless I gave it gas idk what's with that water/coolant in the sump?, but I'm not about to destroy my engine so I guess I'll just have to **** my dad off and go waste more money by his standards of getting some new gaskets tighten it down the right way this time just to make sure there's no coolant leaking, change the oil for good measure, and then start tunning my car the best I can.
Well originally it was turned maybe one firing number clockwise and the #1 wire spot was in the now #7 position (would be first to the right of the fuse box in the above picture) then I moved stuff around messing around one day and got it to the current spot of 2nd to the left of the fuse box in the above picture it ran better that way note this is how it was prior to the intake, carb, and distributor replacement and timming.
Well I think I about half solved the problem, today I decided to try the original position of the distributor so I turned it where it was before, thankfully my mark was left behind after removing the tape I had marked it with, now it doesn't smoke out the back pipes at all sitting there idling.
I took it for a drive and it runs alot better but its still not there yet I get to about 4 grand to 4500rpm and it doesn't sputter anymore it just dosn't increase very fast it sounds like its getting to max rpm but I know thats not max it used to go way above that but I'm not brave enough to sit there with the pedal down to see if it'll slowly rise cause I don't want to blow the engine.
Oh I forgot to mention the way it is now with the distributor position the way it was when I got it and had it running good before the new stuff, it's about idk maybe 12 degrees after TDC according to my balancer.
But idk guys I have no clue after all, all I know is it runs alot better like this but its still not great so I guess I'm pretty much gonna be tackling this thing by ear, how it feels, and runs.
when I had it to the floor it did smoke some out the back pipes idk if it's coolant or not, but it did die one time but not like it used to and when it dies the oil light comes on I think from the ignition being on same with the seatbelts light but after the drive at home when it was idling about maybe 800rpm the oil light was on it would dim in and out but not completely go off unless I gave it gas idk what's with that water/coolant in the sump?, but I'm not about to destroy my engine so I guess I'll just have to **** my dad off and go waste more money by his standards of getting some new gaskets tighten it down the right way this time just to make sure there's no coolant leaking, change the oil for good measure, and then start tunning my car the best I can.
Last edited by james hellsing; 10-12-2010 at 10:29 PM.
#127
10-12-2010, 05:23 PM
how do I tell what my rear end is? there is a tag on the gear cover that says limited slip lube only, but I don't really want to trust the tag that it's a limited slip and not standard I'm sure I'll need to add lube or change that as well.
#128
10-12-2010, 05:36 PM
Actually since I'm gonna change the oil should I just do that and wait on the intake gaskets? cause I'll be able to tell if they're leaking if there's coolant/water in the oil right? And the oil light wasn't on at idle a minute ago when I warmed it up to put it in the garage so idk about that but I'm still changing the oil to check for coolant.
#129
10-12-2010, 11:11 PM
Well your getting closer. I always start with the first to the left of the plug on the dizzy cap as #1. If you do it the way I described the rotor will be pointing some where near the top front valve cover bolt.
I didn't mean to check for air coming out of the plug hole and rotate it at the same time, sorry for the confusion. its frustrating for me to try and desribe this just as much as it is to try and comprehend 1500 miles away. Basically when you feel air stop. Look at the balancer and timing mark. It should be coming toward 0 not leaving it. Say the air thing happens and you look down and the mark is at say 12 o clock. and your tab is at 2ish. So grab the balancer and rotate the last little bit by hand so you don't pass 0. This is tdc on the compression stroke. with the cap and wires the way I said and the rotor pointing toward the valve cover bolt, you'll have plenty of room to set the timing. I like to bring it up to around 3 grand and set it 6* btdc. With the advance unhooked.
Your plugs say your getting way too much fuel. Does your oil smell heavily of gas? I bet it does. Low oil pressure light, I bet that float is sticking and dumping fuel and thinning the oil. Do the timing and then mess with this. The timing will need to be set regardless of how the carb is tuned. Take your air cleaner off so when your moneying around setting the timing you'll notice if the fuel is still dripping when you shut it off.
Every dads right to kick his kids car out of the garage in the winter. **** and moan about money down the drain. Its a right of passage around here to work on your car in the snow when the tools are so cold you can't grab them. fingers so numb bolts are imposable to grab.Some times in the dark, it happens at 5:30pm in December. Christmas day when I was about 22. The starter in my truck took a crap. Needed to replace the solenoid. No biggie. I wound up with 3 tore apart on my tailgate in the freezing cold trying to get to my moms for breakfast. Now I work on my cars to relax. Keep your chin up.
I didn't mean to check for air coming out of the plug hole and rotate it at the same time, sorry for the confusion. its frustrating for me to try and desribe this just as much as it is to try and comprehend 1500 miles away. Basically when you feel air stop. Look at the balancer and timing mark. It should be coming toward 0 not leaving it. Say the air thing happens and you look down and the mark is at say 12 o clock. and your tab is at 2ish. So grab the balancer and rotate the last little bit by hand so you don't pass 0. This is tdc on the compression stroke. with the cap and wires the way I said and the rotor pointing toward the valve cover bolt, you'll have plenty of room to set the timing. I like to bring it up to around 3 grand and set it 6* btdc. With the advance unhooked.
Your plugs say your getting way too much fuel. Does your oil smell heavily of gas? I bet it does. Low oil pressure light, I bet that float is sticking and dumping fuel and thinning the oil. Do the timing and then mess with this. The timing will need to be set regardless of how the carb is tuned. Take your air cleaner off so when your moneying around setting the timing you'll notice if the fuel is still dripping when you shut it off.
Every dads right to kick his kids car out of the garage in the winter. **** and moan about money down the drain. Its a right of passage around here to work on your car in the snow when the tools are so cold you can't grab them. fingers so numb bolts are imposable to grab.Some times in the dark, it happens at 5:30pm in December. Christmas day when I was about 22. The starter in my truck took a crap. Needed to replace the solenoid. No biggie. I wound up with 3 tore apart on my tailgate in the freezing cold trying to get to my moms for breakfast. Now I work on my cars to relax. Keep your chin up.
Last edited by 77nomad; 10-12-2010 at 11:20 PM. Reason: Your dad
#130
10-13-2010, 02:06 AM
Alright sorry if i didn't undersatnd earlier I don't mean to be frustrating. So I'll check where the timming mark is at when the air flow stops if it stops blowing just at or past zero I'll rotate it around till the air thing happens again then just get it to tdc by hand.
Then I'll check the rotor and see if it's pointed towards the top (intake side?) vavle cover bolt correct? and if not it's probably off by a tooth maybe 2 correct? remedied by unbolting it pulling it out just enought to re-insert one tooth in the direction needed correct?.
Then after that where should the main housing be pointed? using the fuse box as an arrow the same dirrection as the rotor? parrallel to the front of the engine like in the picture above?.
For timming it to 6 btdc do I just raise the idle to 3000 rpm then? could have just shot myself with that question for stupidity since I don't even know if thats possible to do or do i get to 3000 rpm by way of the accelerator?
My problem could have been when I set the timming to 6 degrees btdc I did it at idle with the vacume line hooked up, maybe that was the problem idk I don't have that sticker on the rad cover to tell me nice things like idle and stuff so I assumed from my manual that 6 degrees btdc was to be reached at 700 idle.
As for the carb once I do my best at your timing method I guess I'll be pulling the top off the carb to check for the 7/16 spacing that the floats are supposed to be at then attempt to tune it.
Too mutch fuel can also result in poor running, not getting to full rpm range, dying after heavy acceleration i suppose?...
And as for low oil pressure I have no clue my cluster has a clock that doesn't work, temp, gas, and volts. I'm gonna have to get an oil pressure guage lol I hope they come with instructions cause I have no clue to the installation of one.
And as for the cold I fully understand that. I worked some on the car last winter that sucked, our climates are about the same i think? 30 below with wind chill when its bad and 30's for once in awhile high's, although I imagine your guys is worse cause we have a dry cold here, so even with the wind chill biting its not to unbearable, but you guys get alot more moisture right? I'm a southern boy so it took me awhile to get accustomed to this weather pattern of snow 8 months of the year, but it seems to go in spells last couple years where bad and we would've had snow long ago, but we haven't had snow yet this year and it's not looking like we will till maybe next month which is great news if I ever get to drive the camaro again lol.
Then I'll check the rotor and see if it's pointed towards the top (intake side?) vavle cover bolt correct? and if not it's probably off by a tooth maybe 2 correct? remedied by unbolting it pulling it out just enought to re-insert one tooth in the direction needed correct?.
Then after that where should the main housing be pointed? using the fuse box as an arrow the same dirrection as the rotor? parrallel to the front of the engine like in the picture above?.
For timming it to 6 btdc do I just raise the idle to 3000 rpm then? could have just shot myself with that question for stupidity since I don't even know if thats possible to do or do i get to 3000 rpm by way of the accelerator?
My problem could have been when I set the timming to 6 degrees btdc I did it at idle with the vacume line hooked up, maybe that was the problem idk I don't have that sticker on the rad cover to tell me nice things like idle and stuff so I assumed from my manual that 6 degrees btdc was to be reached at 700 idle.
As for the carb once I do my best at your timing method I guess I'll be pulling the top off the carb to check for the 7/16 spacing that the floats are supposed to be at then attempt to tune it.
Too mutch fuel can also result in poor running, not getting to full rpm range, dying after heavy acceleration i suppose?...
And as for low oil pressure I have no clue my cluster has a clock that doesn't work, temp, gas, and volts. I'm gonna have to get an oil pressure guage lol I hope they come with instructions cause I have no clue to the installation of one.
And as for the cold I fully understand that. I worked some on the car last winter that sucked, our climates are about the same i think? 30 below with wind chill when its bad and 30's for once in awhile high's, although I imagine your guys is worse cause we have a dry cold here, so even with the wind chill biting its not to unbearable, but you guys get alot more moisture right? I'm a southern boy so it took me awhile to get accustomed to this weather pattern of snow 8 months of the year, but it seems to go in spells last couple years where bad and we would've had snow long ago, but we haven't had snow yet this year and it's not looking like we will till maybe next month which is great news if I ever get to drive the camaro again lol.
Last edited by james hellsing; 10-13-2010 at 02:10 AM.