hey i misplaced mine in my clutter of a barn and i need new ones. i know to get grade 8 bolts but i dont know the size. i got some at my auto parts store but they almost look like there too short 1/2-13X5s

this is the bolt that goes though the bushing and holds the engine to the bushing. any help be great! thanks

 

You mean the single bolt that goes through the motor mount to connect to the frame mount? It's a 7/16" by around 4"-5" long. Should have a nylock nut on it to keep it from backing off. Thread pitch doesn't really matter.

 

sweet. for some reason the 1/2 ones were good but the length of 5" is correct. thanks for the input there impossible to find for some reason. when i put a 350 in my maro ill get new motor mounts anyways due to mine are worn but still accept a 1/2 fine. i actually have to hammer it in to get it to go though. thanks!

 

During my restoration I jacked my engine up and replaced both motor mounts. I had to drill both of the new mounts out, as the holes didn't line up close enough to get the factory bolt back in. So even with new mounts you may not get the 7/16" bolt in without some reaming on the mounts.
Seems like the stuff they sell today is just ill fitting junk.

 

i got 2 grade 8 1/2" bolts that work. that ill use. its comein back out for a 350 down the road so im going to get new bushings then and mounts and whatnot. so i think they will work thanks for the help.

on a side note. would anyone beable to give me an idea for a holly 600CF carb what accelerator pump squirter to use on a 305. its #25 right now and it seems to run rich at lower rpms. when i get it back together ill play with it more and tune it in better than it was but anyone got an idea. it would miss or backfire sometimes when u stepped on it.

 

Accelerator pump wont have much to do with being rich, or mileage. It only functions when you first step on the pedal. Once you hold your foot steady, or hold steady speed the accelerator pump does nothing.
Sounds more like you might be over jetted for the engine size, and you'll need to pull the metering plate to see what size they are now, then determine what you need. I would think you'll want around a 68 or 70 for that stock 305. I'm running 90-94 in mine for my big block.

 

sweet so yeah it was a tad rich from what i member but maybe drop down 2#s and see if it helps. so your saying the accelerator pump squirter size has little effect?

 

It has a lot of effect on the performance, but nothing on the running rich part. Most rodders used to change to the big 50 accelerator pump to get that giant squirt when you first hit the throttle wide open. Especially if they were running too big a cfm carb. More pump squirt will overcome the bog caused by a carb that's too big.
If you're running rich you should first check float level by pulling the inspection screws nd seeing if fuel runs out. Then if that's OK pull the bowls and rejet it, but put a rebuild kit in it too while it'as apart to ensure the floats aren't leaking at the seats. Of course if it's new you don't need the kit, just jet it down a bit.

 

so it sounds alot to me that its in my jets. also i have a problem with my vacuum secondaries not oping on me but the diaphragm is stretched out and the spring in it feels like it should go on a build 350. something my 305 doesnt have. so it was running as a 2bbl for the entire time. but i will look into it. im a fire it up first since its been sitting make sure my timings good and all that then go from there.

 

Replacement springs and diaphram kits are pretty cheap at Summit. Go with a light spring to allow the secondaries to open earlier, if your engine needs it.
Or if the whole carb is getting a bit tired, then just get the rebuild kit that comes with all the new parts, and then buy the smaller jets at that time to install. Most those kits are only about $25.