i have my battery in trunk of my 70 camaro/350 and it has a ford solenoid in trunk also. when i start my car sometimes the solenoid sticks and the starter keeps running. when i bought car it was like this and it has two kill switches in dash, but they dont kill power when this happens. I have read a bunch of blogs on this and they say bad solenoid or not wired right, also perm magnetic starter,etc... any help ???

 

Yeah, toss the solenoid. My battery is in the trunk also, and I ran the cable direct to the starter, with a battery disconnect switch inline for safety. Run a large enough cable to handle the 9' cable distance and just wire like it was located up front. Mine starts great every time. I put my battery disconnect switch through the floor just in front of the passensger seat, so in an emergency I can disconnect it if I need to. Also provides another level of security, as I can remove the switch key when parked and no battery power. I have my alarm and radio wired to the hot side and separately fused, so they will work with batt. disconnected.

 

sounds good mine has a toggle switch for fuel pump and another supposedly for ignition power,but this has happened like 4 times and i was freakning out this last time trying to find my flashlght and a wrench i leave in the trunk while my starter was steadily turning/clicking YIKES!! thanks

 

Yeah, I've got aux. switches for fuel pump, cooling fan, and heater on mine. All come on with the key, but the switches are a safety so I can disable any of them if I need to.

 

I moved my battery to the trunk, and put a remote solenoid on the inner front fender. I wanted the solenoid there to use as a junction block, and also as a handy jump point if I wanted to hotwire/bump the starter for tuning and whatnot. The solenoid "kit" comes with a metal jumper that bypasses the solenoid on the starter. But as I found out, that won't work on a high torque starter, mine would run on for a couple-few seconds. Check to see if that's what's been done to your starter, or is your starter a conventional one?

 

That's kinda what I did with my battery disconnect under the pass. side floor o my gasser. I can hang a battery charger, or jumper cables on it easily, and just clamp the frame for a ground. With my battery in a box in the trunk it let me attach to it without opening the box. I ran a huge ize 1/0 cable to make sure I'd have no voltage drop.

 

I am mounting mine in the trunk soon. I just don't want to put 50lb of wire into my already over weight car. Do you guys really think the voltage drop would be that bad if I used 4g car stereo wire? Sorry, not trying to hijack the thread. Just peaked my curiosity.

 

The wire is worth the weight. Are you running a high amp ignition? Lights,etc?
Just like air in the shop and T*TS you can't get too much elec flow.

 

I wouldn't go that thin myself. The longer the run, the thinner the wire, the hotter it will get. Run length builds up resistance in the wire, as does heat.
I went with 1 gauge on mine, and the wire didn't weigh 50 lbs.

 

1 awg, or 1/0 awg. is only about 1/2 lb. per ft. I seriously doubt the difference between #4 and 1 awg. would be more than a few pounds. I've never regretted it, and I know friends who went #4 and changed it after having starter problems. A higher resistance can eventually fry a starter motor.
Be sure to use the fine strand too, as it carries more amps the finer the strand is!