A few questions...

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Old Feb 27, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Default A few questions...

Ok i picked up a 1976 lt camaro today but it needs a complete wire harness for the whole car... can i buy one or do i have to buy them seperately and how hard will it be 2 put in??
2nd question this car has no distributer once i purchase one how will i know how the hell to put it in so the car runs?? theres only one way for the dist to go in correct?
and last but not least...
it needs a carb i was thinking of getting this carb http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-M08750VS/
would that work on my car?? all help appreciated
 
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:36 AM
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Bump...
 
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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You can get the wiring harnesses,but there is more than one.There is the engine harness,light harness,rear light harness,etc. I think you can buy them as a complete set where you get all the harnesses in one package,you can get them from just about any place that sells camaro parts like npd,the paddock,year one,etc. As for the carb it depends on what typ of manifold you have as to whether or not it will fit,if it doesnt you should be able to buy an adapter to make it fit.
 
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:59 PM
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yeah i just ordered my npd mag i think im going to buy all my parts from there... my plans are to get it running first then worry about paint and what not
 
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 07:26 PM
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There's only one correct way for the distributor to go in, but many incorrect ways for it to go in! You need to find top dead center on #1 cylinder on the compression stroke first. It can go in 180 degrees out with #1 being lined up, but not on the compression stroke.
Best to turn the crank until the timing mark on the balancer is at zero degrees, then check the valves to see that both intake and exhaust are closed. At this point I pull #1 spark plug and double check that the piston is up for sure.
Now you need to drop the distributor in place being careful to point the rotor toward #1 on the cap. It will require you to turn the rotor slightly until the distributor drops fully seated, then double check that you can align with #1 on the cap. If you can't get it to drop and be correct, then you probably have the oil pump shaft out of alignment, and need to pull the distributor and turn the pump shaft until the alingment pin lines up with the bottom of the distributor.
Snug down the dist. hold down clamp until you fire it, and then you can loosen it enough to get things timed prefectly.
 
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:14 PM
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Ok thanks alot for the info, the only reason i am asking is b.c the PO removed the old dist. and never put another one back into the car... it has not been cranked since it was removed but its still dumb to remove the dist. and not put on back in... hopefully this isnt gunna be a long process to get it in an have her running... cant wait to take it for a spin cus all im doing right now till parts show up is this
 
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 09:35 PM
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Without knowing which cylinder it was pointing to before it came out, you'd have to install it and hope the oil pump shaft had not moved. Best to just start from scratch and go through the above steps to know it's right.
 
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Without knowing which cylinder it was pointing to before it came out, you'd have to install it and hope the oil pump shaft had not moved. Best to just start from scratch and go through the above steps to know it's right.
yeah i was gunna set #1 to tdc pull the timeing cover an go from there
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 12:52 PM
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Why pull the timing cover? No reason to do that, and if you do it will mean pulling or slightly dropping the oil pan, which also means possible leaks! The oil pump shaft can be turned with a long flat blade screwdriver, and once #1 is up, checked through the spark plug hole, then it's just a matter of dropping the dist. in and possibly turning the saft to line the rotor up with #1 on the cap.
 
Old Mar 1, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Why pull the timing cover? No reason to do that, and if you do it will mean pulling or slightly dropping the oil pan, which also means possible leaks! The oil pump shaft can be turned with a long flat blade screwdriver, and once #1 is up, checked through the spark plug hole, then it's just a matter of dropping the dist. in and possibly turning the saft to line the rotor up with #1 on the cap.
i wasnt sure if i needed to pull the or not.. but if i dont ill just to TDC and line it up an slap her in
 
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