Im new here so im hoping Im posting this in the right place I have a 1979 camaro that has a absolutley no power going to the fuse block right now I was working the other day on the car just got done putting in a msd ignition system and tuning a 750 double pumper everything was going great when a major problem occured the postive battery cable going from the battery to the strater touched the block and shorted out on me well I went and got a new battery cable replaced it and made sure that it wouldnt happen again I went to try and start the car and now the only thing that happens is it turns the engine over Ive lost my head lights tailights the whole works other then the engine will turn over I checked the fusible links going from the starter up and there good its like my fuse block is getting no power at all if anyone here has any suggestions id greatly appreciate it. Where does the fusible link wire from the starter go after you leave the starter does it go directly to the fuse block or does it go to the alternator or someplace else. Any help you could give id really really appreciate it.

 

The hot wire from the starter/fuseable link go directly to the firewall, where the alternator wire splices to it. Then to the bulkhead connector and the fuse block. Check to see if you can read 12v. to ground at the hot terminal of the alternator. If you don't have it there either, then the terminal connection is bad where they splice at the firewall. Make sure you make all reading to battery ground, as bad ground can also make your readings bad.

 

I really appreciate the help 1971BB427 I have another question this one may seem stupid but on a 1979 camaro with hei ignition how should the starter be wired I know the battery postive cable goes to the big terminal then there our 2 other smaller wires that our used the ignition wire or trigger wire goes to the smaller post right and the other wire which I believe goes to the fuseblock goes behind the positive cable on the big terminal correct. Thank you In advance I really appreciate this.

 

Here try this: http://www.nastyz28.com/camaro/wire/78w-eng.jpg

Your should have a purple wire (12awg) that is on the "S" post of the solenoid, that will run back to your fuse block and that connects to your neutral safety switch.
Then you should have a red wire (10awg) that will also run back to your fuse block, but that also ties into your charging and AC system. If I'm correct, I believe that post is lettered "R".

 

Let us know what you find out.

 

The red wire on the "R" terminal connects to the charging circuit I believe to give your idiot light it's signal.

 

Don't like those idiot lights.

 

Well figured out what was wrong it was a couple of things actually first off the starter was completely toasted and I do mean toasted the armature was trashed the brushes everything was pretty much wasted. Second thing was the guy who had the car before me had the 2 smaller starter wires switched im not 1 to blame the guy before me for something but I hooked it up the exact same way it was when I swapped out that battery cable and it would start but it always did seem to drain the battery so got me there it wasnt until it fried the battery cable that it wasnt getting any juice to the fuse block but switched those 2 wires around and hooked up a temporary starter till the gear reduction starter comes in tomorrow and she was good. To all of you out there who helped answer my questions I thank you. Im thinking next time I pull the engine Im gonne be putting in a new fuseblock and wiring harness from painless wiring these old wires and old style fuses can be a real pain sometimes i think id rather rebuild an engine then try and hunt down a phantom short. But really guys thank you very much I appreciate all the help. I do have 1 more question to you guys have any of you ever put in 1 of the painless wiring harnesses and how bad were they if the engine and everything was pulled. id really like to upgrade to blade style fuses. Like ive said before I do really appreciate the help.

 

The "R" terminal on the starter outputs 12 volts only while the starter is cranking to start, after that it has no power. That terminal was used to hook up a secondary (bypass) wire to the coil with points & condenser ignition only. The purpose is to give the coil a full 12 volt shot due to the starter causing a big drain on the electrical system. In the "run" mode, the coil is powered with a resistance wire (10 volts or under), and without that bypass wire from the starter, the engine can be hard to start, might not start at all, or will fire up as soon as you let off key. Make sure you're looking at the wires you think you're looking at. And if you have electronic ignition, that "r" wire doesn't need to be hooked up.

 

Let us know how your doing on this.