Best source for susp / steering parts

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  #1  
Old 09-15-2009, 03:15 AM
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Default Best source for susp / steering parts

What's up Camaro family.
Now that my 75 is closer to a classic, unique look, it's time to wake it up from it's original in-line six 250 to my newly rebuilt 350 engine (built by someone else - I'm just getting my feet wet). I was hoping that you could suggest the best source, combination, and brand as well as ANY THOUGHTS for the following areas:
Rear suspension. Gas vs. Air shocks? New multi-leaf springs. Disc or drum brakes? Lowering? Rear posi?
Front end. Where would you buy a new front end? Steering. Front AND rear sway bars? Sub-frame connectors/ structural support/ role prevention?
What else is important for a solid ride? Any thoughts very welcome.
I have a 10-bolt rear end.
THANK YOU vets- and here's a video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRSmkL1Ms8g
 
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:56 PM
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Well if it's in need of all the aforementioned items, you might consider a cheap donor car to buy. Getting a V* car in just about any useable condition will get you a lot of what you need, and save a lot of time and money.
Things like motor mounts for the frame, throttle linkage, multileaf springs, etc. will more than pay for the cost of the car and you can sell what's leftover for more return.
As for shocks, I'd go with good gas shocks, unless you want to change the stance, or haul big people in the back, and need air shocks. I run air shocks in the rear from when I raced, and I wanted to preload the rear. I plumbed mine with dual air valves so I could adjust the rear individually. I never carry anyone back there, as I don't have a rear seat, and my rollbar hits people in the head anyway!
You may need front springs too, but I'd wait until the V8 went in, as they're not much heavier than the straight six.
The 10 bolt will be fine for most 350's, unless you get into something really hot, and then you'll want a posi or a 12 bolt posi. A Power Trax posi unit would be your cheapest way to go, and the instructions will allow anyone with mechanical shkills to install it easily. Took me a couple hours with no effort. They're under $400.
Hope this helps.
 
  #3  
Old 09-15-2009, 11:32 PM
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Default Got the donor car

Thanks a lot for the response- sorry, I forgot to mention that I do have a donor car, sitting across the street, another 75 that I have been parting out, that has the 350 engine in it. I wanted to go with new parts, maybe because some of the parts like shocks and leaf springs don't seem too costly- although I don't have much money so maybe swapping would be best. The 75 donor was an original 350 V8. I already swapped the radiator which was bigger. Guess I have to look at everything to see what is in decent enough condition. I am including a picture of the donor. How many of these parts can I put on myself?

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:47 AM
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Ditto from me on the gas shocks, don't go air shocks. If you want to change the stance of the car do that with the springs or spindles (front). If you are after a good handling car get good quality shocks and some front & rear sway bars that have a healthy diameter to them. If you driver has drum brakes in front and you can get disc off the donor, do it. Always a good idea from a safety standpoint when increasing horsepower. Sub-frame connectors are great but if the horsepower of your engine isn't excessive or you do not plan on taking on a road course they are not necessary.

A good place to get springs are Summit, Jegs or check for any suppliers that are local. Sometimes they can compete with the mail order warehouses especially if you can save shipping charges. For a front rebuild kit go to Classic Industries.
 
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Old 09-16-2009, 03:42 PM
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Hey, thanks again for the advice.

So, I have the "dummy" gauges that only light up when, say, the engine is overheating. I have no rpm, no engine temp, nothing except mph, fuel and gear. Want to stay pretty much as original as I can with the dash, but if/when I swap in the 350, definitely want to have gauges. Recommendations?
The 350 has the electric gas choke. Possible problems with electric or good mechanism?
Also, my tilt steering column is lose after a medium/serious collision to my front left nose (hence: donor car). It still steers, but if I push the wheel to the left too hard the radio goes out. The donor does have the steering column in place, wondering if I need to replace the whole thing or just the tilt.
Lastly, will my rear end be fine with the 350? Both rear ends (my car and donor) are 10 bolt.
Any thoughts welcome, thanks again.

Jesse
 
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:55 PM
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Well since you've got the donor, I'd use the rear springs if they are multileaf. If not, then go with a new set. Springs aren't badly priced, but shipping on somethng that large and heavy will be more than the springs!
Never use a set of used shocks, unless they were less than a few months old. Just not worth it for the price and work involved.
If the old car has a sway bar front and rear, I'd use them with new bushings, but if it doesn't I'd order all that new too.
If your tilt column is shorted I'd only swap if the donor is a tilt too, otherwise I'd open it up and fix the shorted spot. Tilts really are a nice option and will increase the car's value, so I'd keep it.
 
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Old 09-21-2009, 02:05 AM
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Thanks a lot for the feedback.
I will definitely repost when I start moving with everything, which should be in the next month or so.
Thanks again.
 
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