Adding a Brake Booster
#1
Adding a Brake Booster
Hi everyone,
I am thinking of adding a brake booster to my 1972 but I have never done it. Currently, the car only has a master cylinder which I think is leaking from the top. Does anyone know what I need to do first? Are there any recommendations for which I should buy? I will probably be buying another master cylinder just for the sake of having everything new.
Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thank you all.
I am thinking of something like this....
I am thinking of adding a brake booster to my 1972 but I have never done it. Currently, the car only has a master cylinder which I think is leaking from the top. Does anyone know what I need to do first? Are there any recommendations for which I should buy? I will probably be buying another master cylinder just for the sake of having everything new.
Any suggestions or comments are welcome. Thank you all.
I am thinking of something like this....
#2
If you're leaking from the top try just getting the little rubber gasket that goes in there first.
As far as the rest of your question about the booster I don't know. I've never had to change one out. I am going to have to remove mine here shortly to put my clutch hydraulic master cylinder plate behind it though and I'm having a friend come over to help me with that.
As far as the rest of your question about the booster I don't know. I've never had to change one out. I am going to have to remove mine here shortly to put my clutch hydraulic master cylinder plate behind it though and I'm having a friend come over to help me with that.
#3
I converted my 71 from manual to power booster. I went to a wrecking yard and found a 2nd. Gen Firebird with the master cyl. and booster on it. I also snagged the operating rod tthat goes between the booster and the brake pedal, as it's a different length.
I just tossed a rebuild kit in the master cylinder and used the new one, but I think the original can be mated to the new booster too. They looked identical to me. Of course you'll need to put a fitting in your intake to connect the vacuum hose, so you'll need hose and fitting too.
I just tossed a rebuild kit in the master cylinder and used the new one, but I think the original can be mated to the new booster too. They looked identical to me. Of course you'll need to put a fitting in your intake to connect the vacuum hose, so you'll need hose and fitting too.
#4
I converted my 71 from manual to power booster. I went to a wrecking yard and found a 2nd. Gen Firebird with the master cyl. and booster on it. I also snagged the operating rod tthat goes between the booster and the brake pedal, as it's a different length.
I just tossed a rebuild kit in the master cylinder and used the new one, but I think the original can be mated to the new booster too. They looked identical to me. Of course you'll need to put a fitting in your intake to connect the vacuum hose, so you'll need hose and fitting too.
I just tossed a rebuild kit in the master cylinder and used the new one, but I think the original can be mated to the new booster too. They looked identical to me. Of course you'll need to put a fitting in your intake to connect the vacuum hose, so you'll need hose and fitting too.
Well since you've had experience with this 1971BB427 I have a question for you. I'm installing my T56 right now and this weekend I hope to tackle installing the master cylinder bracket. It's a bracket that goes between the firewall and the booster. The bracket itself is a .25 inch thick piece of metal. What do I need to take into consideration when pulling the master cylinder and booster? I know I don't want to even look at the proportioning valves funny let alone screw with them if I can help it. Dialing those guys back in can be a pain. I haven't read anywhere that I would need a longer rod or anything when I put the plate in but it still kind of makes me wonder about screwing with the depth of the booster/MC combo.
#5
Today I took off the old master cylinder. I then slipped the new booster + cylinder combo and found that it fits perfectly. The only issue I am having now is that I can't make the lines reach the new cylinder. The combination valve is on the side and the lines don't stretch far enough to make it out to the front. Any ideas?
#6
Been awhile since I did mine, but I used the proportioning valve from the donor, and also the bracket, and operating rod. Just a simple bolt on that way. If your lines don't reach you'll need to do one of three things; either replace them from the master cyl. to the first fitting, rebend them if they have the little circle in them, or get the donr proportioning valve from the car the booster came from.
Be sure to make some extra bend in the lines between the master and the frame, or they will eventually break or leak from vibration and movement.
Be sure to make some extra bend in the lines between the master and the frame, or they will eventually break or leak from vibration and movement.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post