Hello everyone,

I have an 81 camaro that I have rebuilt and I
need to chat with someone who knows about and can build a 350 v8 with their eyes closed. But of course I will welcome any assistance.
Here's the situation:

I built up a 350 from an engine out of a 77 GMC pickup, it has:
4 bolt mains
steel crank
stock rods w/ARP rod bolts
TRW 10:1 flattop pistons
Trick flow heads 2.02 in, 1.94 exh valves
competition cams hydraulic valvetrain
Holley 650 cfm carb w/vac sec
edelbrock dual plane non emission intake
the cam 1 or maybe 2 steps above stock and in my opinion the engine is undercammed. (no rough idle)
about 10,000 miles on since the rebuild

I have about 6k in this engine. (all parts)
I can't get this thing to run well. I would like to change the cam to a more aggressive grind, but not until I get it running to my satisfaction now.

The car idles terribly. Sometimes too high, sometimes too low and I can never seem to get it adjusted properly. It floods very easily and I can never seem to get it timed right.
CAN ANYBODY HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You should go with about a 292 cam, retard it about 4 degrees or you can go all the way to a 302, but don't forget to install a 2500 + stall converter. Get rid of the 650 cfm holley and go with a 650 dp (double pumper) holley or maybe even a 750 cfm dp holley, or if you want to spend a little extra cash, go with trick fuel technologies. Also change your ignition to MSD 6AL ignition box with one of their billet HEI distributors or go with a hypertech ignition. Also play around with different timing degrees (vac advancement).


1980 camaro
350 400hp
13.3 1/4 mile

 

I think your 1st problem is that you probably have a vacuum leak at the intake...this is why the idle is up and down....the 2nd problem sounds like it has to do with the power valve in the Holley carb....just a quick question...has the car ever backfired?...cuz this generally tends to screw the power valve. For the correct power valve you will need to get a vacuum reading...this will also help determine if there is a vacuum leak...once a proper reading is attained (say 12)...then you need to replace the old power valve with the new one (simple procedure) around a #7.5 or little higher. I would also suggest to check the old distributer to see if it needs to be rebuilt and a curve kit with lighter springs may be helpful. If you had the actual specs of the camshaft, it would be easy to determine if it is/isn't unsuitable for your combination...I really hope this helps you somewhat

 

I rebuilt my 350 in my 81 Z last year with vortec heads. I would start with the timing. Do you have a new distributor or are you sure the old one is working properly? Are the spark plug wires and spark plugs new or used? I used a ported vacuum supply to the vacuum advance on the distributor and an initial timing of 12 degrees at 600 RPM. I have a vacuum advance unit with 10 degrees advance and a mechanical advance at 22 degrees. At WOT I have 34 degrees advance and at cruise I have 44 degrees. I would start there. The vacuum advance bracket has two numbers on it to designate the vacuum advance.

 

i would make two changes ... get rid of the dual plane . dual plane sucks in alot of applications. go with single plane. also you need to put a vacuum gauge on intake vacuum ... idling in gear and get an accurate reading to get the right power valve. chances are your power valve is opening prematurely flooding you out. if your vacuum reads 7 hg go with a 5 hg power valve. don't over carb. that 650 VS is perfect. then upgrade your ignition with an MSD standalone distributor. reasonably priced and high quality and use an MSD blaster coil. should straighten out your problems. Sick