the 406 pregame show
#1
the 406 pregame show
ok so as you know i am about to start the build of my 600 plus hp 406 and i want it to run about 6.50s on the 8th mile but i still wanna be able to drive it on the street to work if i want to and i wanna run 93 in it and i want it to be naturally asperated i know im gonna build and alluminum head motor with a not too big but decent cam in it and im leanin towards 2 brow flat tops instead of domes but not really sure im wonderin if anyones ever done this before because ive built all kinds off 350s but never a 400 and ive heard they are completely different animals. any ideas? six second 3 day driver? is it too much too ask
#2
Hey Heartbeat, I run a 406 and have built quite a few. Mine is conservative (in my mind) at 534bhp and 513tq. (engine dyno)
Some things to keep in mind.
Stick with the 2 bolt block, they are stronger in the mains.
Cooling system, Cooling system, Cooling system.
Dont cheap out on the machining, IE: line bore/ hone/ decking / torque plate etc.
I run 9.4:1 Comp. ratio with 21cc dish pistons on 64cc TFS 195s. w/ port and polish. I run 89 octane at 36deg. timing. This combo was originally built for a Pro charger.
I have been told that around 550hp the block is the weak point, have been running mine for 8 years (summers only) with no problems.
Key to the power is a good roller cam and killer heads intake combo.
Some things to keep in mind.
Stick with the 2 bolt block, they are stronger in the mains.
Cooling system, Cooling system, Cooling system.
Dont cheap out on the machining, IE: line bore/ hone/ decking / torque plate etc.
I run 9.4:1 Comp. ratio with 21cc dish pistons on 64cc TFS 195s. w/ port and polish. I run 89 octane at 36deg. timing. This combo was originally built for a Pro charger.
I have been told that around 550hp the block is the weak point, have been running mine for 8 years (summers only) with no problems.
Key to the power is a good roller cam and killer heads intake combo.
#3
I don't think a 600 HP smallblock is going to make a very good daily driver, or occasional work ride. Not saying it can't be driven on the street with 600HP, but it wont be very streetable, and the gas mileage will be lucky to hit 6-7 mpg.
If you want a race engine, then build one and race it, but don't expect to be doing much street driving with it. Under 500 HP would be a manageable engine, and could be more of a street/strip car. My '71 is around 450 HP and very streetable BBC based on a 427 bored .060" over.
If you want a race engine, then build one and race it, but don't expect to be doing much street driving with it. Under 500 HP would be a manageable engine, and could be more of a street/strip car. My '71 is around 450 HP and very streetable BBC based on a 427 bored .060" over.
#4
Your not asking much are ya? Without a power adder I think your asking too much. I could build a 600 HP SB but it would idle like a pro stocker. Your thinking on the cam is way off too. Your gonna need a solid roller for sure and the specs will be large by huge. Thinking about it I see alot of NA SBCs with 500HP. But 600 is gonna be a high compression thumper that will need the finest valvetrain and rotating assembly to deal with the RPM its gonna take to get you there. Pump gas... nope.
I see LS motors hitting that number but they are totally different beasts.
I see LS motors hitting that number but they are totally different beasts.
#5
You will not need a solid roller to get to the 600hp range. Use a set of the new AFR220cc sbc eliminator heads, custom match the ports to a Air Gap RPM,( this will help keep some midrange and low end) Or go to Victor if you just want to crush some dyno numbers on the top end of the tach. 10.5:1 Compression, Longer rods, a hyd. roller cam in the 230's to low 240's @ .050 and around .575 - 600 Lift ( After the rocker) With a set of 1 7/8 " headers and you will be High 500's possibly even 600+ You will also need about a 2500rpm convertor.
You will likely need a vacum resevoir for power brakes, or retrofit a vacum pump, or convert to manual brakes.
It can be done.
You will likely need a vacum resevoir for power brakes, or retrofit a vacum pump, or convert to manual brakes.
It can be done.
#6
Oh it surely can be done, but the question was whether it could be driven to work a few days a week. I just don't see that being much of a work rig. I'd get an economy car, or daily driver and leave the built Camaro for weekends and evenings.
#7
Well guys I forgot to mention I live about 3 miles from where I work and from the looks of it I am about to come into a lil bit of money so I'm gonna send it to the machine shop next payday and then start nickel and diming it together piece by piece I am probably gonna go with alluminum heads with about 2.02s and I've been told that the secret to high hp 400s is a smal lobe center cam and a good flowing set of heads and I heard of a converter that weighs less than 10lbs full of fluid and I know I'm gonna go with an alluminum flywheel because I want it to turn quick and I don't really wanna go over 10 or 11 to 1 compression because I want to drive the car not park it in the driveway but if I decide to take it to the track ill take the pot in the 7.0 class and I'm thinkin about 2 brow flat tops and a forged standard crank
#9
I don't think an aluminum flywheel will work on an automatic; they're for sticks. Not sure of anyone who makes a aluminum flexplate for an automatic, and I doubt it would save weight since flexplates are already so light.
Buy a high quality converter and it wont be a weight issue. None of them are that heavy, so paying a lot for some exotic converter that maybe saves a couple pounds is wating money that could go elsewhere on the engine.
I think you're dreaming to get that kind of HP with the described build.
Buy a high quality converter and it wont be a weight issue. None of them are that heavy, so paying a lot for some exotic converter that maybe saves a couple pounds is wating money that could go elsewhere on the engine.
I think you're dreaming to get that kind of HP with the described build.
#10
I wouldn't use an aluminum flexplate, even if one did exist (I've never seen or heard of one). A steel flexplate does just that, it flexes for a purpose...to take up shock. It's not just a nick-name.
Flex aluminum back and forth enough times, and you get cracking.
Flex aluminum back and forth enough times, and you get cracking.