2nd Gen Camaro parts
#11
Here's the completed rear storage area on my Camaro "Coupe"!
The bottom panels are hinged for hidden storage of small items. I built the panels out of 1/2" plywood, and covered them with heavy, stiff wool felt carpet. The braces and brackets are all built from 2"x2" aluminum angle. Screwed to the wood and sheet metal. The largest back panel is removeable for access to speakers and wiring in the future.
The bottom panels are hinged for hidden storage of small items. I built the panels out of 1/2" plywood, and covered them with heavy, stiff wool felt carpet. The braces and brackets are all built from 2"x2" aluminum angle. Screwed to the wood and sheet metal. The largest back panel is removeable for access to speakers and wiring in the future.
#12
Ebay and Craigslist has worked for me on all my carbs. I don't think I've paid over 60 for a single one of mine and I have about six that I've bought over time. Just need to know your model numbers and what you need and want. 60 bucks plus a 30 dollar rebuild kit makes a good carb if you have a good foundation to begin with. The one on my car right now is a 3310-2 750cfm and runs really strong and I really like it. Just make sure you're not over carbing it if you're using mechanical secondaries. The good thing about vacuum secondaries is that you can't really over carb it since the secondaries open based off engine load and you can tune that to your liking.
Do you have any suggestions for increasing compression without stroking the motor? I was thinking of putting 305 heads, but i am not happy with 8.1:1 compression.
#13
Pistons can be a cheap way to go if you don't need your cylinders bored and honed and just be able to get by with breaking the glaze for a new set of rings. This requires an entire tear down of the engine though and you'll need to pay someone to remove the old pistons from the rods and install the new ones. I can get piston/rod swaps done locally for about 70 - 80 bucks a set. You have to know if your heads and block have been milled though otherwise you might run into problems with clearances. If you tear down the engine yourself and buy a set of economy pistons for 160 - 200 bucks you're looking at an install of around 300 - 450 bucks after you pay for parts, labor, gaskets and other misc items.
Other than that would be heads and your gasket setup. This would also be your easiest way but possibly your most expensive if you go with a good set of aftermarket heads. It just depends on what you get with this. Racingjunk.com sometimes has some really good deals on heads.
Last edited by kyphur; 08-18-2009 at 12:31 PM.
#14
The biggest problem with used carbs is the shaft for the butterflies. Sometimes the baseplate or shaft wears and might leak air around the shaft. Not the end of the world, but it will be a bit spendy to have the baseplate bushed to eliminate slop. Check the shafts very closely for play on used carbs.
#15
The biggest problem with used carbs is the shaft for the butterflies. Sometimes the baseplate or shaft wears and might leak air around the shaft. Not the end of the world, but it will be a bit spendy to have the baseplate bushed to eliminate slop. Check the shafts very closely for play on used carbs.
#16
$125? WOW! I've turned them out on my lathe and then set the base up in the mill to get them accurately line bored true. Guess I should start turning out bushings if they sell for that much!!!!!!!
#18
Still working on prepping the body for paint, but when I get tired of body work I stray. As I mentioned before, my car was used for 1/4 mile racing into the 1980s. and the gauges were mounted to the cowl vents on the old hood. Didn't want to remove the gauges, but also didn't want to drill holes in my new cowl hood, since it doesn't have the factory vents, so here's what I built today:
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