Hello,

I am trying to replace the radiator on my 1972 Camaro. I would like to know if any of you have any suggestions or any experiences you would like to share. I looked up the specs on a haynes repair manual and it says I need:

a Crossflow 15.5 qts capacity left inlet

Do I need any other information or should I be aware of anything? Do you have any recommendations for websites that I can use to order?

Thank you for your help.

Thoreau

 

summit racing.com or just type in radiator for camaro on google it should point out some company for your car.

 

If you're going to buy a direct fit from summit or jegs you'll probably end up paying about 450 - 700+. You can get stock radiators from almost any auto parts store and you can get a replacement one from somewhere like 1aaauto.com (I've got the link pointing to camaro radiators, just select your year).

I bought a universal Griffin Radiator from Summit after taking my measurements and I love it. Paid only around 175 at the time and I NEVER get above 165 with a high output 350. It's a lot thicker and a lot stouter and I did have to "customize" the fan shroud a little for the passenger side outlet. You're stock fit hoses might cause a problem but converting over to a lava flex hose is only about 20 - 40 bucks (can't remember). I also bought new polyuerethane supports for it and a Griffin cap. Everything was right over 200 and looking at my cart with this stuff added it's saying 231 so everything together should be about 245 with shipping.

Well call me a liar. There's three Proliance direct fits on summit for your year but I put in a 350. It's not a big block is it?

proliance 1
proliance 2
proliance 3

All the other direct fit radiators like, Griffin and BeCool start out at 450.


Nice car btw.

 

Just looked at the pics in your intro to the forums and it looks like you're pushing a small block 350 so you shouldn't have any problem with the choices in the proliance unless you're pushing more than stock HP on a recent rebuild. I know my little stock radiator couldn't keep up with my engine and was hitting the hots regularly. So if you plan on going big power with it you might want to go ahead and go for the better radiators. Like I said, I've had no problems out of my Griffin and their tech support people are great and stand by their product.

 

Thank you very much, Kyphur. I have another question: what is the difference between a big block and a small block engine in 2nd Gen Camaros? I have a 350, does that mean I have a small block? Are there any big block 350s? I always thought big blocks referred to 454s and such... [sm=dontgetit.gif]

 

Small blocks are 283, 307, 327, 350 the big blocks are 396, 427, 454.

If you are ordering a radiator, ask about the side tanks. Many replacement radiators now come with plastic tanks. There really is no quality issue but some do not fit very well, especially with the shroud. If your car has A/C make sure to ask for at least a three core unit.

 

I would also like to know if it matters whether I have an a/c when I buy the radiator. I am not in the same state as the car and I don't particularly remember so I don't want to get the wrong one.

 

The mounting for an A/C radiator is the same as a non A/C car. The only difference is the thickness (number) of the cores. And of course, more cores = more cooling capacity. Just get the 3 or 4 core radiator, that way you will have some extra cooling. The only part you will need to change if your car does not have heavy duty cooling is the upper mounting panel (T9426 from Classic Industries, $37.00).

Also, if you can find any 70's Chevy cars or pickups at the salvage yard with good radiators in them just about all will interchange with yours.

 

There were some big block 348's in the 50's but they were a very limited run with trucks if I remember correctly.

Also, be careful if you do get a salvage yard radiator because if the anti-freeze gets through the coolant seperation wall and into the transmission fluid it will eat the rings and seals and the transmission will fail rapidly.

Everything JRs72RS says about the moutning of the AC vs. Non-AC car is right, you shouldn't have any problem unless you just get the totally wrong radiator. I got a seperate high quality cooling system for the th400 in my car and went to a full non-ac radiator. It dropped in without too much of a problem. Since it's a universal it sits a little higher but I have no clearance issues whatsoever with about an inch and a half or so of clearance when I used my kneadable markers to check.

 

Hey guys,

I went to Auto Zone and Advanced Auto Parts today to try to get a radiator. Well, the problem is that the ones they have are supposed to be made for my car. However, they were a little longer (across) than the one that I took off the car. I have bit of a dilemma because the engine on my car is not the original engine. I do know that it is a 350 but that is it. Then I got to thinking that maybe the radiator could have been wrong all along.

I waited to buy the radiator to see what advice you guys had. The hose connections match but the radiator is longer across than the one I took off. Is there any way I can be sure. I know there is enough room but I don't know if the new size will affect the car in a negative way.

Once again, any advice will be appreciated. I am kind of bummed out about this right now.. [sm=smiley6.gif]