350 Operating Temp?
#12
Hi. New to the Forum.
Got a '67 with a 350 vortec. Runs good, but runs extremely warm.
I bought the car with the current setup in it:
Huge aluminum radiator
Electric fan (none on the engine)
Regular thermostat
Heater lines not hooked up (Have to replace the heater core)
Running down the road - never gets above 190 degrees
Sitting in traffic for over 5 minutes - got over 210
Looking for suggestions.
Please help.
Would love to take it to Cruising the Coast, but definitely won't make it thru traffic as is, or Mississippi summers.
Got a '67 with a 350 vortec. Runs good, but runs extremely warm.
I bought the car with the current setup in it:
Huge aluminum radiator
Electric fan (none on the engine)
Regular thermostat
Heater lines not hooked up (Have to replace the heater core)
Running down the road - never gets above 190 degrees
Sitting in traffic for over 5 minutes - got over 210
Looking for suggestions.
Please help.
Would love to take it to Cruising the Coast, but definitely won't make it thru traffic as is, or Mississippi summers.
#13
Fwiw, I have known a couple of guys who had a flat type of "shroud", and it actually made the car run hotter. Removing it took care of the overheating problem. If the shroud isn't funnel shaped, it can block the air flow in the area where it's covering the radiator. Might as well just cover that area of the radiator with duct tape...almost. I don't have a shroud on mine, and the 14" single fan keeps the engine cool as a coocumber.
#14
that makes good sense 69er. it explains why Ive seen so many with electric fans not running shrouds. I happen to have one of those flat aluminum shrouds. I will be monitoring my Temps closely this summer and will probably end up running it without it just to see what kinda diff it makes.
#15
I actually made one of those flat style shrouds for my car, have an aluminum radiator and a 16" puller fan. A friend of mine that lives in So Cal has a Camaro and he did some testing with this sytle shroud and different depths and he found that a 3/4" depth worked the best.
I think the main thing is, if you don't have a large enough CFM fan to pull/ push the air through the radiator/ shroud, that's a problem.
Of course there are other issues that could cause this problem, like timing, water flow, radiator size, etc.... but I think this area, fan cfm is over looked a lot.
I think the main thing is, if you don't have a large enough CFM fan to pull/ push the air through the radiator/ shroud, that's a problem.
Of course there are other issues that could cause this problem, like timing, water flow, radiator size, etc.... but I think this area, fan cfm is over looked a lot.
#16
I actually made one of those flat style shrouds for my car, have an aluminum radiator and a 16" puller fan. A friend of mine that lives in So Cal has a Camaro and he did some testing with this sytle shroud and different depths and he found that a 3/4" depth worked the best.
#18
not mine. if anything its been running too cool. i keep turning the thermostat up on the fan so it doesnt run so much. I think you misunderstood my issue. the only gauge I have is the saw tooth gauge which just shows hot and cold, not the actual temp. so I got one of these...
and it never shows over 180. but like you said before.... thats the water in the Radiator right?
and it never shows over 180. but like you said before.... thats the water in the Radiator right?
#20
yea it was that AutoMeter gauge I saved from the fire.... just wasnt reading correctly with the temp sensor I have. sorry I didnt relay that info back did I. my bad. I still intend to put a "Mechanical" Temp gauge in per someones suggestion. Ill get to it soon.