Still has a flat spot when you first hit the gas, When I had it in the garage it seem good but under load the flat spot is back. After the flat spot it runs great, I set the idle and float and I check the accelerator pump to .015. I checked the base timing and the Vacuum advance is working as it should. Tomorrow is another day. Other then the hesitation and an exhaust rattle everything seems great.
In the video I had my 9 year old son with me so I was trying to take it easy. That was one of the worst hesitations of the night.

 

Tuned out to be the aluminum check valve pin that is under the squirter in the air horn was getting stuck. I had to clear out the bore with a drill bit by hand not in a drill. I drove it a lot tonight. I even took the kids to the store.

Exhaust rattle from the cross brace needs sorted and I found I do not have dash lights. So that needs fixed. She is schedule for inspection on Wednesday the 8th.

 

Good deal on the maiden voyage.
I remember an old school trick in removing anything under the squirter.

 

Success!, I can now drive the car when and where I want with no limitations. Mechanic who inspected it also has a 67 so we talked more then he inspected .


Top down cruse tonight. We have the US's oldest drive-in movie theater less then 5 miles from our house

 

It has rained every day since I have had it inspected. This sucks. Some of the door seals need replaced so it is not going out in the rain.

 

I did some research and the original shifter is 67-68 Muncie only, They mount to the cross member not the trans. They are pricey when they come up for sale and they tend to bind if there is wear on them. So for now I will stick with the Hurst shifter. Because the Hurst shifter has more travel and is not in the same position as the original I had to make an adapter plate to the console. I have compression molded non-directional Carbon fiber laying around so I made it from that. Funny I was watching a youtube show on a super cars and they called in Forge composites. Way to jazz up the name.





Back to work finally on Monday.

 

I did some work on the engine bay. I removed and polished the valve covers then I used Eastwoods diamond coat on them. I switched over to studs on the valve covers and modified some wire looms. The studs a 1-3/4 Stainless set screws with stainless nuts.

 

I think in the console, there is a plate, like the cardboard template with shift pattern to the right, and a sliding black plastic sheet as it covers the boot.
At least '68's had this feature.

 

I have the original plate, If I just install the plate without the plastic sheet I can not put the car in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear. I originally thought the shifter needed rebuilt or adjusted but when I was installing the X support I notice the floor was cut for the current shifter. I am working on a budget so $700-1000 for the factory correct shifter is going to have to wait. I would get the head light doors and the power top working maybe even a paint job before worrying about the shifter.

I was using the larger hex bolts for mock up, the plan was to counter sink everything and hide the fasteners but in the end I real liked the industrial look of the bolts.

 

Yes, when I pulled the OEM shifter out and installed Hurst, I had to bend the Hurst stick so it stayed within the OE sjhift plate.