69 Camaro will not start... Need checklist!
 

Hello gang!

I am new to this forum, so if this question has been asked before, I apologize.

I am a brand new 69 Camaro owner. I've never owned a 'muscle' car before, so I have zero-experience in this field.

She has a 350 in her now, 4 barrel Edlebrock carburetor (not sure which model) , a fairly new motor, according to my records. She has a brand new battery, new spark plugs, new oil, etc., but she will not start. She wants to, but no go.

Being somewhat new to car mechanics, and reading veraciously on the side, what I would love is a checklist from veteran 69 Camaro owners/restorers of things I should check/replace to get her started. I have tons of books, but very little know-how - right now that is.

If anyone out there could sort of walk me through a checklist, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

Do you have an original points/condenser style distributor, or upgraded HEI (large cap with coil on top)?

1. If points style, hook up a volt meter to the + terminal of the coil and see if you have 10 volts or a little under when the key is on, not the start position.

2. Then, have someone crank the engine over and see if you have closer to 12 volts at the coil. Sometimes, a no start issue is from someone not reconnecting the bypass wire from the starter which gives the coil 12 volts only while trying to start (12 volts all the time will burn the points). If that wire has been disconnected or broken, your engine will be hard to start, or won't start at all.

3. But if you have an HEI distributor, you need 12 volts going into it, and the factory resistance coil wire will not be used, a designated wire from the fuse block would be run to the distributor.

4. Back to having a points and condenser distributor, the condenser could be bad, or the points could be burned. Replacing and setting the points is an old school trick you'll have to learn. google and youtube would be very helpful there.

5. With either setup, check the contacts inside the distributor cap. If they look corroded or burned, either clean them or replace the cap.

6. Look down the carb and pump the throttle, do you see gas squirting good and healthy? If so, it's not a fuel supply problem.

7. Then there is the chance that the timing is swung way out of whack. You can check that with a timing light as you crank the engine over to see if it's off.

These are the basics to start on, let us know your findings.

Thanks!!!
 

Thank you, Camaro 69 for your very quick reply. I will most definitely print your checklist and follow each one. Very helpful! On a side note, this is the VERY FIRST TIME I've received a reply post on a car forum, so I really appreciate it!

Time to get greasy.

That's because we don't suck!! lol. Guess you've been going to the wrong places.
Have fun.

Welcome, 69CamarO, and to add to Camaro69's list,
You might as well pull plugs out and dry them off, then reinstall with the correct gap 0.035"
Point gap 0.019"-0.020" or 30° dwell on dwell meter.
Externally charge present battery, even over night.
Ensure when cold, press accelerator pedal to floor once and check to see choke plate is closed and fast idle cam is in place, 1400-1600 rpm if electric choke.
If manual choke, press pedal to floor and hold, pull out choke cable, and release pedal.
Set initial ignition timing to 4°-8° BTDC - can be done while cranking.
Once engine starts, if elec choke, choke plate should be pulled open and engine should run smooth at fast idle. If not, adjust black cap in the direction needed, but only 2-3 notches on cap to body. If manual choke, push in cable knob until engine smooths out.

Enjoy the ride.