When lowering...spring cutVS.drop spindle
 

So after searching the previous threads on lowering and wheel fit, there is alot of speculations and "could" haves. I have restored 15" rally wheels now and looking to replace with 17" or 18" when I finish engine and trans.

When using what size wheels with drop spindles do you run into problems? Haven't read why "Blade" is so against them. When is coil spring altering better?
Rear will be lowered via springs, wheel fit will be interesting. That was a great chart that 1969SS posted, but 67 and 69 wheel wells are slightly different. Not sure if the chart applies to 67's.
Thank you.

usually the rear on a '67 will have a little more room than a '69 would. I don't remember the exact sizes that I had in the chart (and I'm not about to do a search), but 99% of the time those are safe sizes. if you want to push it a little bit and work with more specific offsets, you can fit bigger tires

Ha! Everyone always thinks the other persons year could fit the tires you seem to want!

Oh, and let me clarify on the title, when I said "cut" spring I really meant a spring made like those from hochkis to lower the stance.

I just cut a coil off a set of 6 cylinder springs and called it good. I've run 265R50/15 BFG t/a s since 1980 on that setup. I did have to clearance the fenders a bit. I recently went to a new setup with Coy's wheels, 245R45/17 up front, and they are smaller, and fit great.

huh?

it's just that in '69 the wheelwells aren't as big as in '67 because of the bodyline change. the '67 has a higher arch, so I'm sorry, but I really don't get what you're talking about

Another way to get the stance you want is to heat the coil. Doing this will give you the option of getting a spring height that is perfectly suited for your car. Using an acetylene torch heat the lower coil on the upper side of where it just clears the coil below it. Use only enough heat to relax the steel and stop when the coil settles down onto the one beneath it. If you want more drop move up the coil slightly and heat again. This is an old street rodder's trick I have used for years with no broken coils. It will also preserve some of the factory ride quality.

I considered the heating trick when I dropped mine, but I wasn't sure how to get both sides to have the same drop when done. I didn't want to waste a weekend searching junkyards for a new set if I screwed up (this was pre-Hotchkiss/Eibach/anything aftermarket).

I went with the 6 cylinder springs because they had a lower initial spring rate, which then was raised when I cut off one coil. When cutting a coil, you measure and then mark with masking tape so you get both the same, and I used a hack saw to cut so I wouldn't get any heat transfer. It did take a few blades, but those coils have been cut like that since 1977, and there is no sag or other failure, and the car rides nicely (for a 1969 design).